From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./What are some good home remedies to clear up a poison oak rash and make it less itchy?
This rash is actually an allergic reaction -- some people will be bothered by poison oak, and some won't. It's not contagious, and the fluid in the blisters will not spread the rash, as is commonly thought. Most rashes will clear up without treatment, and, for a mild case, you can probably just let it run its course. A cortisone-type preparation may help. Also, keep bath or shower water as cool as possible and avoid using soap on the affected area. Health food stores sell several natural remedies for a poison oak rash, and you may wish to consult a local store for advice on which ones work best.
Monday, December 31, 2007
Can I plant vegetables, including corn, in containers?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./Can I plant vegetables, including corn, in containers?
You can plant vegetables in just about any container, but trash cans are a great choice. Just make sure the container has adequate drainage holes for water to drain out (but soil to stay in). Fill the containers with clean topsoil. If you're reusing plant containers, throw out the old soil. Make sure you provide enough space for each plant. Here are some examples of space requirements: beans (bush), 6 inches; carrots (small varieties), 3 inches; corn (small varieties), 12 inches; cucumbers (small varieties), 12 inches; lettuce (small varieties), 8 inches; peppers, 18 inches; cherry tomatoes, 12 inches; tomatoes (small varieties), 24 inches. Use this soil mix to start: 1 part peat moss, 1 part vermiculite, 1 tablespoon dry 5-10-5 per 12-inch pot, 2 tablespoons dolomitic lime per 12-inch pot. Be sure to keep the soil evenly watered from the time seeds are sown, through the seedling stage, and after the plants have become established. It is essential that you feel the soil daily to see if watering is necessary. When the top layer of soil feels dry to the touch, water the plants thoroughly, until water runs through the drainage holes.
Q./Can I plant vegetables, including corn, in containers?
You can plant vegetables in just about any container, but trash cans are a great choice. Just make sure the container has adequate drainage holes for water to drain out (but soil to stay in). Fill the containers with clean topsoil. If you're reusing plant containers, throw out the old soil. Make sure you provide enough space for each plant. Here are some examples of space requirements: beans (bush), 6 inches; carrots (small varieties), 3 inches; corn (small varieties), 12 inches; cucumbers (small varieties), 12 inches; lettuce (small varieties), 8 inches; peppers, 18 inches; cherry tomatoes, 12 inches; tomatoes (small varieties), 24 inches. Use this soil mix to start: 1 part peat moss, 1 part vermiculite, 1 tablespoon dry 5-10-5 per 12-inch pot, 2 tablespoons dolomitic lime per 12-inch pot. Be sure to keep the soil evenly watered from the time seeds are sown, through the seedling stage, and after the plants have become established. It is essential that you feel the soil daily to see if watering is necessary. When the top layer of soil feels dry to the touch, water the plants thoroughly, until water runs through the drainage holes.
Salt from ice melt has turned the grass at the edge of my sidewalks brown. How can I get the green to return?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./Salt from ice melt has turned the grass at the edge of my sidewalks brown. How can I get the green to return?
The sodium chloride used in deicer is toxic to plants and soil, so your grass probably was killed and the soil underneath it harmed as well. Your lawn most likely needs to be aerated in those areas. Do that, then reseed it. If you want to avoid future damage, consider using sand rather than salt on your sidewalks.
Q./Salt from ice melt has turned the grass at the edge of my sidewalks brown. How can I get the green to return?
The sodium chloride used in deicer is toxic to plants and soil, so your grass probably was killed and the soil underneath it harmed as well. Your lawn most likely needs to be aerated in those areas. Do that, then reseed it. If you want to avoid future damage, consider using sand rather than salt on your sidewalks.
When's the best time to divide hostas?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./When's the best time to divide hostas?
You may start new plants by dividing clumps in early spring. Otherwise, clumps may remain undisturbed indefinitely.
Q./When's the best time to divide hostas?
You may start new plants by dividing clumps in early spring. Otherwise, clumps may remain undisturbed indefinitely.
Can I use manure to fertilize my garden bulbs?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./Can I use manure to fertilize my garden bulbs?
No! Manure can encourage bulb rot and disease. Instead, use a sprinkling of bonemeal.
Q./Can I use manure to fertilize my garden bulbs?
No! Manure can encourage bulb rot and disease. Instead, use a sprinkling of bonemeal.
How many species or varieties of oak trees are there?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./How many species or varieties of oak trees are there?
True oaks, from the genus Quercus (part of the beech family), can be separated into three groups: white, red, and black. Many plants often called oaks aren't from this genus. These include African oak, Australian oak, bull oak, Jerusalem oak, poison oak, river oak, she-oak, silky oak, tanbark oak, Tasmanian oak, and tulip oak.
Q./How many species or varieties of oak trees are there?
True oaks, from the genus Quercus (part of the beech family), can be separated into three groups: white, red, and black. Many plants often called oaks aren't from this genus. These include African oak, Australian oak, bull oak, Jerusalem oak, poison oak, river oak, she-oak, silky oak, tanbark oak, Tasmanian oak, and tulip oak.
Is garlic grown in the home garden prone to fungal disease?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./Is garlic grown in the home garden prone to fungal disease?
In cool weather, garlic can be attacked by a fungus called white rot. Not much can be done to control or prevent that problem except rotating your crops and cleaning up the area after harvesting. The spores can live in the soil for many years. The fungus affects the base of the leaves and roots. In warmer weather, you may come across basal rot, another fungus causing similar problems. Pink rot, clove rot, and neck rot are three other common fungi.
Q./Is garlic grown in the home garden prone to fungal disease?
In cool weather, garlic can be attacked by a fungus called white rot. Not much can be done to control or prevent that problem except rotating your crops and cleaning up the area after harvesting. The spores can live in the soil for many years. The fungus affects the base of the leaves and roots. In warmer weather, you may come across basal rot, another fungus causing similar problems. Pink rot, clove rot, and neck rot are three other common fungi.
Sunday, December 30, 2007
'Do I water evergreens during winter chinooks?'
Fundamentals Of Chinook Gardening
Tips For Success In Chinook Climates
by Linda Tomlinson, Guest Writer for Northscaping. com
Gardening in the Chinook region certainly has its challenges. Temperatures can fluctuate rapidly during winter months, changing a bitterly cold day into one where water runs down the street in a matter of hours. The strong winds that blow in the Chinooks melt the snow and dry out the landscape.
Despite the somewhat milder winters, it is it next to impossible to grow broadleaf evergreens in Chinook conditions, as the plants lose too much moisture through transpiration right through the winter. On the other hand, the narrow needles and scales of juniper, cedar, spruce and pine trees usually fare better as long as they are not placed on southern or western exposures.
Wrapping evergreens in a protective wrap such as burlap will shield the plants from the drying sunlight and winds. Place the protective material loosely around the plants after the ground is frozen, and remove it in the spring when the soil will absorb moisture once again. Make it look as attractive as possible, as it will be part of the landscape for at least 6 months.
Consider mulching your plants every fall, as snow cover is often nonexistent in a Chinook climate. While this lack of snow may be great for the residents of cities and towns in these regions, it leaves plants without any insulation against the cold or dramatic and sudden temperature changes which can and do occur.
Covering perennial and shrub beds with a 15 - 20 cm (6 -8 in.) mulch will insulate the plants’ roots against fluctuations in air temperature. Fallen leaves, peat moss, compost or clean straw all make terrific mulches. When applying the mulches, be sure that there are not large air holes near the plant roots. In windy areas, place branches on top of the mulch to keep it in place over the winter. Come spring, you can incorporate some of the mulch into the soil, and the rest can be composted.
The difference between a good garden and a great one is often found in the soil. Add compost and other organic material yearly to amend the soil, replacing lost nutrients and building soil structure. Healthy soil produces healthy plants that are more likely to survive adverse conditions.
Use plants that are hardy to the area. Some would argue that the only ones that are truly hardy are native species, but this isn’t necessarily true. Choose trees and shrubs that are rated for your hardiness zone, or even one zone colder as a measure of protection. If possible, purchase woody material that has been grown in the Chinook region. This way, you can be sure that the weaker plants will have died in the growing fields, leaving only the hardy ones for market. Yes, these plants are more expensive than plants trucked in from warmer climates, but they are also more likely to survive, and that’s what’s important.
This is not to say that all plants that are grown in warmer climates will die; many will go on to become fine specimens. But their initial growth will likely be slower while they establish themselves and adjust to their new climate. It is even possible for some plants to grow for a number of years before eventually succumbing to winterkill, much to the dismay of the homeowner.
Tender plants can be grown successfully if mulched and positioned properly. Build a cage around small tender shrubs and fill it with mulch, to insulate them from the cold. Do not remove the mulch until all danger of low temperatures has past. If removed too early, the fluctuating frost and heat cycles of spring will kill these tender plants.
Place tender plants in areas that are protected from westerly winds and southern exposures. The winds will dry out the plants causing dessication and tissue death, while the heat of the sun causes them to break dormancy prematurely, before winter and the threats of spring frosts are over.
Do not fertilize plants after the middle of July or the first of August. Plants need to stop putting out new growth and harden up in preparation for winter. Plants that continue to grow into the fall are soft and full of moisture. The liquid in the cells expands when it freezes, rupturing the cell walls and killing that part of the plant.
Water all plants after the first killer frost in the fall when they have gone dormant for the season, and again just before the ground freezes for the winter. Wet soil will freeze harder and stay frozen longer than a dry soil, and will make moisture available to the plants during warm spells and in early spring. Water evergreens and beds with a southern exposure when the temperature reaches plus 10°C (50°F) during Chinooks. This will help replenish moisture lost to the sun and warm winds.
With careful plant selection, good soil, mulch and extra water, gardening in Chinook country can be an enjoyable, rewarding and successful venture.
How can I get rid of the fairy rings of mushrooms in my backyard?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./How can I get rid of the fairy rings of mushrooms in my backyard?
There's no good control for these mushrooms, which spread in circles from an underground fungus. You can remove the mushrooms, temporarily at least, by mowing or raking them. Apply low doses of nitrogen to your lawn on a regular basis. This will increase soil fertility and may create a hostile environment for mushroom regrowth. By the way, these patterns of growth are known as fairy rings because it was once thought that they marked the paths of dancing fairies.
Check other posts on this problem.
Q./How can I get rid of the fairy rings of mushrooms in my backyard?
There's no good control for these mushrooms, which spread in circles from an underground fungus. You can remove the mushrooms, temporarily at least, by mowing or raking them. Apply low doses of nitrogen to your lawn on a regular basis. This will increase soil fertility and may create a hostile environment for mushroom regrowth. By the way, these patterns of growth are known as fairy rings because it was once thought that they marked the paths of dancing fairies.
Check other posts on this problem.
Do you have any suggestions for keeping a dog from digging in my yard?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./Do you have any suggestions for keeping a dog from digging in my yard?
Dig a hole where the dog likes to dig. Blow up some small balloons, put them in the hole, and cover them with dirt. When the dog comes to dig in the loose dirt, he may pop a balloon and scare himself away from the area. It's worth a try.
We're only printing the question and answers ... and don't purport all to be total truth. I would not even consider this option. The big question ... like any animal in nature ... What if they swallowed a balloon ?
Q./Do you have any suggestions for keeping a dog from digging in my yard?
Dig a hole where the dog likes to dig. Blow up some small balloons, put them in the hole, and cover them with dirt. When the dog comes to dig in the loose dirt, he may pop a balloon and scare himself away from the area. It's worth a try.
We're only printing the question and answers ... and don't purport all to be total truth. I would not even consider this option. The big question ... like any animal in nature ... What if they swallowed a balloon ?
How can I tell by size, color, and firmness when it is time to harvest my tomatoes?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./How can I tell by size, color, and firmness when it is time to harvest my tomatoes?
Leave your tomatoes on the vine as long as possible. If any fall off before they appear ripe, place them in a paper bag and store them in a cool, dark place (never refrigerate or store on a windowsill). The perfect tomato for picking will be very red in color, regardless of size, with perhaps some yellow remaining around the stem. A ripe tomato will be only slightly soft.
Q./How can I tell by size, color, and firmness when it is time to harvest my tomatoes?
Leave your tomatoes on the vine as long as possible. If any fall off before they appear ripe, place them in a paper bag and store them in a cool, dark place (never refrigerate or store on a windowsill). The perfect tomato for picking will be very red in color, regardless of size, with perhaps some yellow remaining around the stem. A ripe tomato will be only slightly soft.
How do I change the pH in my soil to change the color of my hydrangeas?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./How do I change the pH in my soil to change the color of my hydrangeas?
It's easy to modify your soil's pH. Start with the Hydrangea macrophylla variety. Soil that is on the acid side (pH between 4.5 and 5.5) will produce blue hydrangeas. Once established, you must fertilize them yearly with an acid fertilizer according to the package directions. When you plant initially, modify the soil with two pounds of sulfur and peat moss. If you want pink to light red hydrangeas, the soil needs to be neutral to alkaline, with a pH of 6.5 to 7.5. Add ground limestone only around the plant to make the blossoms pink. A pH above 7.5 will result in poor growth.
As you will see in many posts ... chemistry has much to do with nature ... and vice vers
Q./How do I change the pH in my soil to change the color of my hydrangeas?
It's easy to modify your soil's pH. Start with the Hydrangea macrophylla variety. Soil that is on the acid side (pH between 4.5 and 5.5) will produce blue hydrangeas. Once established, you must fertilize them yearly with an acid fertilizer according to the package directions. When you plant initially, modify the soil with two pounds of sulfur and peat moss. If you want pink to light red hydrangeas, the soil needs to be neutral to alkaline, with a pH of 6.5 to 7.5. Add ground limestone only around the plant to make the blossoms pink. A pH above 7.5 will result in poor growth.
As you will see in many posts ... chemistry has much to do with nature ... and vice vers
When is the best time to move rose plants? Will they die if I move them in full flower?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./When is the best time to move rose plants? Will they die if I move them in full flower?
The ideal time, for most of the United States, is early spring, when the soil is soft and easily worked, and the rosebush is still nearly dormant. The coming warm weather will help regenerate the bush. Fall is the second best time, toward the end of October or in November, if the soil is still reasonably warm. The plant will do better the longer it has to reestablish itself before winter cold arrives. You can transplant roses in mid-season, say June or July, but it's risky. Play it safe by pruning back the bushes by about one-third (which would remove your flowers). This helps the roses recover from transplant shock. To transplant, prepare the new location as if you were planting the bush for the first time, but include additional water and soil or mulch to prevent dehydration. Take care not to lose any roots, transfer quickly, and hill the soil or mulch to retain as much moisture as possible. Also to prevent dehydration, transplant on a mild, calm, cloudy day when rain is predicted. Be especially careful not to unnecessarily expose the plant's fine, white feeder roots to air, sun, or wind.
This advice can be applied to our Canadian climates.
Q./When is the best time to move rose plants? Will they die if I move them in full flower?
The ideal time, for most of the United States, is early spring, when the soil is soft and easily worked, and the rosebush is still nearly dormant. The coming warm weather will help regenerate the bush. Fall is the second best time, toward the end of October or in November, if the soil is still reasonably warm. The plant will do better the longer it has to reestablish itself before winter cold arrives. You can transplant roses in mid-season, say June or July, but it's risky. Play it safe by pruning back the bushes by about one-third (which would remove your flowers). This helps the roses recover from transplant shock. To transplant, prepare the new location as if you were planting the bush for the first time, but include additional water and soil or mulch to prevent dehydration. Take care not to lose any roots, transfer quickly, and hill the soil or mulch to retain as much moisture as possible. Also to prevent dehydration, transplant on a mild, calm, cloudy day when rain is predicted. Be especially careful not to unnecessarily expose the plant's fine, white feeder roots to air, sun, or wind.
This advice can be applied to our Canadian climates.
What plants can I choose that might not appeal to the deer that are destroying my garden?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./What plants can I choose that might not appeal to the deer that are destroying my garden?
Deer seem to find holly, maple, oak, pine, redwood, and walnut trees unappetizing. For shrubs, try fuchsia, bottlebrush, clematis, daphne, Natal plum, star jasmine, wild lilac, and yucca. As for ground covers, deer stay away from Aaron's beard, English ivy, Saint-John's-wort, and spearmint. They don't seem to like black-eyed Susan, bleeding heart, daffodils, daylilies, Oriental poppy, and snowflakes. This is not a complete list. You may notice a deer trying one of these, but it will take just one sample and not return for more.
We have many posts on this problem - as we too see many deer challenging our bag of tricks.
Q./What plants can I choose that might not appeal to the deer that are destroying my garden?
Deer seem to find holly, maple, oak, pine, redwood, and walnut trees unappetizing. For shrubs, try fuchsia, bottlebrush, clematis, daphne, Natal plum, star jasmine, wild lilac, and yucca. As for ground covers, deer stay away from Aaron's beard, English ivy, Saint-John's-wort, and spearmint. They don't seem to like black-eyed Susan, bleeding heart, daffodils, daylilies, Oriental poppy, and snowflakes. This is not a complete list. You may notice a deer trying one of these, but it will take just one sample and not return for more.
We have many posts on this problem - as we too see many deer challenging our bag of tricks.
Is there a nontoxic way to kill the clover that is taking over my lawn?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./Is there a nontoxic way to kill the clover that is taking over my lawn?
The best nontoxic way to control clover is to have a healthy lawn. Clover is among the more stubborn lawn weeds, as it can usually compete with grass even in bad growing conditions, such as drought. If you have lots of clover, your lawn has had too little water or too little fertilizer. To prevent clover in next year's lawn, apply a minimum of 1 pound of nitrogen fertilizer per 1,000 square feet in September and 1 1/2 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet in November. Don't mow your lawn too short, too often. Shorter grass has trouble competing with weeds. Keep it at 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 inches long. Watering is important during drought, but you don't want to overwater when conditions are normal. Also see "Safe Cures for Lawn Troubles," in our Garden Advice section.
Q./Is there a nontoxic way to kill the clover that is taking over my lawn?
The best nontoxic way to control clover is to have a healthy lawn. Clover is among the more stubborn lawn weeds, as it can usually compete with grass even in bad growing conditions, such as drought. If you have lots of clover, your lawn has had too little water or too little fertilizer. To prevent clover in next year's lawn, apply a minimum of 1 pound of nitrogen fertilizer per 1,000 square feet in September and 1 1/2 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet in November. Don't mow your lawn too short, too often. Shorter grass has trouble competing with weeds. Keep it at 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 inches long. Watering is important during drought, but you don't want to overwater when conditions are normal. Also see "Safe Cures for Lawn Troubles," in our Garden Advice section.
How can I prevent the return of spider mites, which were a big problem in my beans and melons last summer?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./How can I prevent the return of spider mites, which were a big problem in my beans and melons last summer?
These spiders are most problematic when the weather is hot and dry. Keeping your plants well mulched and misted will help deter them, as they hate cool, moist conditions. You can destroy the webs of these spiders with water bursts from your hose. Spraying with an insecticide is another solution. Do this three times at one-week intervals to kill the mites plus any developing eggs.
Q./How can I prevent the return of spider mites, which were a big problem in my beans and melons last summer?
These spiders are most problematic when the weather is hot and dry. Keeping your plants well mulched and misted will help deter them, as they hate cool, moist conditions. You can destroy the webs of these spiders with water bursts from your hose. Spraying with an insecticide is another solution. Do this three times at one-week intervals to kill the mites plus any developing eggs.
Saturday, December 29, 2007
What is the best way to remove a tree stump?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./What is the best way to remove a tree stump?
Unless you have a pig in the yard, the best way to remove a stump is to hire a company that will use a machine to chip it out. You can then use the chips as mulch in your landscaping or flower beds. If you do happen to have a pig, you can pen the pig in with the stump and sprinkle some corn around the stump's roots. The pig will dig around the roots until it has found every kernel. Another option is to keep the stump where it is and build up the area around it into a raised bed for planting.
Q./What is the best way to remove a tree stump?
Unless you have a pig in the yard, the best way to remove a stump is to hire a company that will use a machine to chip it out. You can then use the chips as mulch in your landscaping or flower beds. If you do happen to have a pig, you can pen the pig in with the stump and sprinkle some corn around the stump's roots. The pig will dig around the roots until it has found every kernel. Another option is to keep the stump where it is and build up the area around it into a raised bed for planting.
How much water should I give my shrubs and trees?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./How much water should I give my shrubs and trees?
Your trees and shrubs need watering, just like everything else growing in your yard, especially in periods of little rain. Watering cools them off in hot weather and helps the plants absorb nutrients from the soil, as well as make their own food. Don't get overzealous, however. Wait for signs of water stress, including wilting and loss of leaves. Here's a rule of thumb for watering: Give your trees an inch of water every two weeks if you've had less than an inch of rain. Try to saturate the soil all at once, so the water goes deep. To monitor your watering, use a sprinkler and place an empty tuna can nearby. When the can is full of water, empty it and then fill again. Two fills will ensure adequate soil saturation. Water in the early morning or late evening to avoid quick evaporation.
Q./How much water should I give my shrubs and trees?
Your trees and shrubs need watering, just like everything else growing in your yard, especially in periods of little rain. Watering cools them off in hot weather and helps the plants absorb nutrients from the soil, as well as make their own food. Don't get overzealous, however. Wait for signs of water stress, including wilting and loss of leaves. Here's a rule of thumb for watering: Give your trees an inch of water every two weeks if you've had less than an inch of rain. Try to saturate the soil all at once, so the water goes deep. To monitor your watering, use a sprinkler and place an empty tuna can nearby. When the can is full of water, empty it and then fill again. Two fills will ensure adequate soil saturation. Water in the early morning or late evening to avoid quick evaporation.
Is there a natural repellent for deer ticks and wood ticks?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./Is there a natural repellent for deer ticks and wood ticks?
We recommend crushed garlic. Rub it on your wrists, ankles, and exposed skin before heading out into tick country. Avoid putting the garlic on or near your face.
Q./Is there a natural repellent for deer ticks and wood ticks?
We recommend crushed garlic. Rub it on your wrists, ankles, and exposed skin before heading out into tick country. Avoid putting the garlic on or near your face.
The celery in my garden turned brown and rotted to the ground. What went wrong?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./The celery in my garden turned brown and rotted to the ground. What went wrong?
Your plants were probably infested with blackheart, a disease caused by a calcium deficiency when the plants are young. Check your soil pH. If it's 6.0 or lower, that's the likely culprit. Add lime to increase the pH to 6.5 to 6.8. If you think you already have enough calcium, weather conditions may have prevented the celery from absorbing it. Extreme heat, extremes of wet and then dry soil conditions, or high salt in your soil also may cause the condition.
Q./The celery in my garden turned brown and rotted to the ground. What went wrong?
Your plants were probably infested with blackheart, a disease caused by a calcium deficiency when the plants are young. Check your soil pH. If it's 6.0 or lower, that's the likely culprit. Add lime to increase the pH to 6.5 to 6.8. If you think you already have enough calcium, weather conditions may have prevented the celery from absorbing it. Extreme heat, extremes of wet and then dry soil conditions, or high salt in your soil also may cause the condition.
How can I get my two hydrangeas to bloom?
From the Old Farmers's Almanac:
Q./How can I get my two hydrangeas to bloom?
Most hydrangeas bloom on the previous year's growth, or old wood. Prune in the fall, because no flowering will occur if flower buds are damaged by severe cold.
Q./How can I get my two hydrangeas to bloom?
Most hydrangeas bloom on the previous year's growth, or old wood. Prune in the fall, because no flowering will occur if flower buds are damaged by severe cold.
When is the best time to divide my peony?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./When is the best time to divide my peony?
Dig your peonies in early fall. Rinse off the soil with a garden hose, then divide the rhizomes into sections, making sure each section has three eyes. Plant immediately to make sure they are established before the first freeze.
Q./When is the best time to divide my peony?
Dig your peonies in early fall. Rinse off the soil with a garden hose, then divide the rhizomes into sections, making sure each section has three eyes. Plant immediately to make sure they are established before the first freeze.
How can I keep my geranium leaves from turning yellow?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./How can I keep my geranium leaves from turning yellow?
Geraniums like moist, well-drained soil. Yours may be drying out too much between waterings. Geraniums should bloom heavily in the spring and early summer, then go into a dormant stage.
Q./How can I keep my geranium leaves from turning yellow?
Geraniums like moist, well-drained soil. Yours may be drying out too much between waterings. Geraniums should bloom heavily in the spring and early summer, then go into a dormant stage.
Friday, December 28, 2007
How should we overwinter a floribunda rose?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./How should we overwinter a floribunda rose?
Do not fertilize your rose after late summer. Leave the last crop of blooms on to form hips, which will help stop the plant's growth. Keep it well watered. After a couple of hard freezes, mound soil about 1 foot deep around the stalk and cut the canes back to two to four feet, tying them together to prevent them from whipping in the wind. In the spring, remove the soil carefully, as tender new growth may be starting.
Advice in the wintering of all roses ...
Q./How should we overwinter a floribunda rose?
Do not fertilize your rose after late summer. Leave the last crop of blooms on to form hips, which will help stop the plant's growth. Keep it well watered. After a couple of hard freezes, mound soil about 1 foot deep around the stalk and cut the canes back to two to four feet, tying them together to prevent them from whipping in the wind. In the spring, remove the soil carefully, as tender new growth may be starting.
Advice in the wintering of all roses ...
How can I get rid of the tent worms I have in northwestern Montana?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./How can I get rid of the tent worms I have in northwestern Montana?
You may want to use several methods in the war against tent worms. You could try removal, which means taking the nests and caterpillers and smashing the worms or dropping them into a strong solution of salt water or kerosene. If you do this little job at night or early morning, you'll catch most of the caterpillars in their nest. You could try importing some predators and beneficials, such as bluebirds, chickadees, ground beetles, and praying mantises, all of which eat tent worms. Be cautious about using praying mantises, however, because they'll be happy to eat your ladybugs as well. You could plant butterfly milkweed and members of the carrot family (celery, dill, parsnips, and Queen Anne's lace), all of which host parasites that can eventually kill or reduce your tent worm population. You could try trapping the worms, using burlap wrapped around the trunk of an infected tree. This can trap the mature larvae, which you'll need to remove and destroy daily. Finally, you could try biological control, spraying with Bacillus thuringiensis (BT). Several applications may be necessary. To prevent investations, destroy the egg bands that are visible on tree trunks, fences, and house siding during the winter
One of those cyclic infestations you may experience.
Q./How can I get rid of the tent worms I have in northwestern Montana?
You may want to use several methods in the war against tent worms. You could try removal, which means taking the nests and caterpillers and smashing the worms or dropping them into a strong solution of salt water or kerosene. If you do this little job at night or early morning, you'll catch most of the caterpillars in their nest. You could try importing some predators and beneficials, such as bluebirds, chickadees, ground beetles, and praying mantises, all of which eat tent worms. Be cautious about using praying mantises, however, because they'll be happy to eat your ladybugs as well. You could plant butterfly milkweed and members of the carrot family (celery, dill, parsnips, and Queen Anne's lace), all of which host parasites that can eventually kill or reduce your tent worm population. You could try trapping the worms, using burlap wrapped around the trunk of an infected tree. This can trap the mature larvae, which you'll need to remove and destroy daily. Finally, you could try biological control, spraying with Bacillus thuringiensis (BT). Several applications may be necessary. To prevent investations, destroy the egg bands that are visible on tree trunks, fences, and house siding during the winter
One of those cyclic infestations you may experience.
Peat Moss with mushrooms
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./I dusted my lawn with peat moss to help build the soil. Now I have lots of mushrooms coming up all over. How can I get rid of them?
If the peat moss was a packaged product harvested from the peat bogs of Canada, it is unlikely that it was the cause of the mushrooms. There is a possibility that adding the peat created good sprouting conditions for the mushroom spores that are commonly present everywhere. To begin growing, a colony of the mushrooms must have decomposing matter available, That is usually dead roots, but perhaps in your case, the peat moss gave just enough decomposing matter to encourage the mushrooms. To get rid of mushrooms, rake or mow. Core aerate to loosen up the compacted soil and you will get more air into the soil structure. Eventually the peat moss will break down and the mushroom colony will cease production. Too bad they are not shitake, right?
We got a good deal on a local farmer's peat moss from an ancient bog once. We also got to experience the poison ivy. Be careful of the 'good' deal.
Q./I dusted my lawn with peat moss to help build the soil. Now I have lots of mushrooms coming up all over. How can I get rid of them?
If the peat moss was a packaged product harvested from the peat bogs of Canada, it is unlikely that it was the cause of the mushrooms. There is a possibility that adding the peat created good sprouting conditions for the mushroom spores that are commonly present everywhere. To begin growing, a colony of the mushrooms must have decomposing matter available, That is usually dead roots, but perhaps in your case, the peat moss gave just enough decomposing matter to encourage the mushrooms. To get rid of mushrooms, rake or mow. Core aerate to loosen up the compacted soil and you will get more air into the soil structure. Eventually the peat moss will break down and the mushroom colony will cease production. Too bad they are not shitake, right?
We got a good deal on a local farmer's peat moss from an ancient bog once. We also got to experience the poison ivy. Be careful of the 'good' deal.
Our lawn is being run over by ground ivy. How can we get rid of it?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./Our lawn is being run over by ground ivy. How can we get rid of it?
Ground ivy, also called creeping charlie, is a perennial broadleaf weed that lights up the horticulture hotlines all over the country in the spring. Interesting enough, the best time to apply a control for it is when you apply your fall lawn fertilizer. Look for a weed-and-feed product that contains prodiamine. The herbicide will prevent the ground ivy seeds from sprouting, and it will kill any tiny plants that have already started growing. Consider another possibility - hand-pulling. Ground ivy is completely edible and was one of the "potherbs" harvested in early spring when little else was available. It contains Vitamin C.
Q./Our lawn is being run over by ground ivy. How can we get rid of it?
Ground ivy, also called creeping charlie, is a perennial broadleaf weed that lights up the horticulture hotlines all over the country in the spring. Interesting enough, the best time to apply a control for it is when you apply your fall lawn fertilizer. Look for a weed-and-feed product that contains prodiamine. The herbicide will prevent the ground ivy seeds from sprouting, and it will kill any tiny plants that have already started growing. Consider another possibility - hand-pulling. Ground ivy is completely edible and was one of the "potherbs" harvested in early spring when little else was available. It contains Vitamin C.
Does it make any difference if your potatoes bloom or if the buds just fall off?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./Does it make any difference if your potatoes bloom or if the buds just fall off?
Typically potato vines begin to blossom at the same time as the underground tubers begin to form, and that is our signal to steal a few new potatoes from the edges of the patch. However, not every potato vine blooms, and there is usually no difference in yield. It is normal for some flower buds to fall off. Other buds will open, be visited by bees or other pollinating insects, then close up and fall off. Is it possible that some of the buds you see falling are actually spent flowers? That's just a thought. At any rate, whether or not your potato vines bloom is not an indicator of a problem. As long as you are getting a satisfactory harvest, it's nothing to worry about (unless you are hoping to produce potato seed).
Q./Does it make any difference if your potatoes bloom or if the buds just fall off?
Typically potato vines begin to blossom at the same time as the underground tubers begin to form, and that is our signal to steal a few new potatoes from the edges of the patch. However, not every potato vine blooms, and there is usually no difference in yield. It is normal for some flower buds to fall off. Other buds will open, be visited by bees or other pollinating insects, then close up and fall off. Is it possible that some of the buds you see falling are actually spent flowers? That's just a thought. At any rate, whether or not your potato vines bloom is not an indicator of a problem. As long as you are getting a satisfactory harvest, it's nothing to worry about (unless you are hoping to produce potato seed).
Toxic Plantings
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./I dug up a raised garden bed that had oriental and Asiatic lily bulbs and bearded iris growing there for three years. Can I use this bed for vegetables now?
There won't be a negative residual effect in the soil from these toxic plants. Unlike the chemical substance secreted by walnuts (juglans species), the compounds in the rhizomes and bulbs of iris and lilies do not leak into the soil around the plants. Enjoy your vegetable garden - and remember that foliage of tomato and potato plants are also poisonous.
... Something to keep in mind with some plantings
Q./I dug up a raised garden bed that had oriental and Asiatic lily bulbs and bearded iris growing there for three years. Can I use this bed for vegetables now?
There won't be a negative residual effect in the soil from these toxic plants. Unlike the chemical substance secreted by walnuts (juglans species), the compounds in the rhizomes and bulbs of iris and lilies do not leak into the soil around the plants. Enjoy your vegetable garden - and remember that foliage of tomato and potato plants are also poisonous.
... Something to keep in mind with some plantings
Thursday, December 27, 2007
What makes a Kirby cucumber burpless?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./What makes a Kirby cucumber burpless?
Kirby cucumbers, like other greenhouse cucumbers, are milder than garden grown slicing or pickling cucumbers. As a result, to some people they seem to be easier to digest, resulting in less burping. The greenhouse cucumbers now known as "Kirby-type" were developed to produce fruit parthenogenically, that is, without pollination of the flowers. Thus, Kirby-type would produce fruit in a greenhouse. The Kirby's have no seeds, a very tender skin, and a distinctive long, slender shape. The selection process that resulted in the seedless, thin-skinned cucumbers also selected out some of the compounds that produced the digestion problems. Nowadays, the easy-to-digest qualities of the Kirby-type cucumbers have been re-selected by plant breeders. Home gardeners can choose from a number of seed sources for burpless cucumbers. Look for varieties that are long and slender with solid dark green skins.
Q./What makes a Kirby cucumber burpless?
Kirby cucumbers, like other greenhouse cucumbers, are milder than garden grown slicing or pickling cucumbers. As a result, to some people they seem to be easier to digest, resulting in less burping. The greenhouse cucumbers now known as "Kirby-type" were developed to produce fruit parthenogenically, that is, without pollination of the flowers. Thus, Kirby-type would produce fruit in a greenhouse. The Kirby's have no seeds, a very tender skin, and a distinctive long, slender shape. The selection process that resulted in the seedless, thin-skinned cucumbers also selected out some of the compounds that produced the digestion problems. Nowadays, the easy-to-digest qualities of the Kirby-type cucumbers have been re-selected by plant breeders. Home gardeners can choose from a number of seed sources for burpless cucumbers. Look for varieties that are long and slender with solid dark green skins.
Is there an organic way to get rid of aphids on my roses?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./Is there an organic way to get rid of aphids on my roses?
The easiest way to get rid of aphids is to hit the bugs with a strong spray of plain water. They are not strong crawlers, and once you knock them to the ground, they will die before they make it back up the stem of the plant. Look under the leaves and stems for early accumulations. Releasing beneficial insects that eat aphids is another way to control aphids. Keep in mind that, to keep beneficials around, you will have to tolerate the presence of some aphids. Otherwise the good bugs will not have anything to eat. There isn't much of a way to keep aphids from getting on your roses - after all, its what they do. Just plan to come out every two to three days with the hose, and wash those bugs right off. If you want to get a little stronger, use an insecticidal soap. This product, like water, will need to be used whenever you see an infestation.
Q./Is there an organic way to get rid of aphids on my roses?
The easiest way to get rid of aphids is to hit the bugs with a strong spray of plain water. They are not strong crawlers, and once you knock them to the ground, they will die before they make it back up the stem of the plant. Look under the leaves and stems for early accumulations. Releasing beneficial insects that eat aphids is another way to control aphids. Keep in mind that, to keep beneficials around, you will have to tolerate the presence of some aphids. Otherwise the good bugs will not have anything to eat. There isn't much of a way to keep aphids from getting on your roses - after all, its what they do. Just plan to come out every two to three days with the hose, and wash those bugs right off. If you want to get a little stronger, use an insecticidal soap. This product, like water, will need to be used whenever you see an infestation.
Apple trees - Is it necessary to spray them twice a year?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./I have three apple trees that give good fruit. I spray them early spring one time only. Is it necessary to spray them twice a year?
If you are satisfied with yield and appearance of the fruit you harvest, you don't need to increase your spray schedule. The Extension office in your area will have recent information on any pests or diseases that are causing problems for growers. You might want to give them a call if you notice anything unusual or begin to experience lower yields.
Q./I have three apple trees that give good fruit. I spray them early spring one time only. Is it necessary to spray them twice a year?
If you are satisfied with yield and appearance of the fruit you harvest, you don't need to increase your spray schedule. The Extension office in your area will have recent information on any pests or diseases that are causing problems for growers. You might want to give them a call if you notice anything unusual or begin to experience lower yields.
How do you plant true lilies?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./How do you plant true lilies?
True lilies (Lilium species) should be planted in the fall or early spring. The site should have cool, moist, well-drained soil and protection from wind. Plant lilies among azaleas, ferns, or other shallow-rooted perennials to provide wind protection and shade for their roots. Choose 4- to 4 1/2-inch bulbs that have some fleshy roots attached at their bases. Dust the bulbs with fungicide to prevent rot. Lily bulbs also are easily bruised, so handle them with care. Dig beds at least one foot deep and add plenty of organic material, such as compost or humus. Level the bed, set the bulbs in the ground at a depth three times their height, and then cover them with soil. Add a layer of mulch to maintain moisture and coolness. Divide lilies every year or two for optimal flower yield. There is one exception to these directions: Plant Lilium candidum and L. candidum hybrids in late summer or early fall. Cover them with no more than one inch of soil.
Q./How do you plant true lilies?
True lilies (Lilium species) should be planted in the fall or early spring. The site should have cool, moist, well-drained soil and protection from wind. Plant lilies among azaleas, ferns, or other shallow-rooted perennials to provide wind protection and shade for their roots. Choose 4- to 4 1/2-inch bulbs that have some fleshy roots attached at their bases. Dust the bulbs with fungicide to prevent rot. Lily bulbs also are easily bruised, so handle them with care. Dig beds at least one foot deep and add plenty of organic material, such as compost or humus. Level the bed, set the bulbs in the ground at a depth three times their height, and then cover them with soil. Add a layer of mulch to maintain moisture and coolness. Divide lilies every year or two for optimal flower yield. There is one exception to these directions: Plant Lilium candidum and L. candidum hybrids in late summer or early fall. Cover them with no more than one inch of soil.
When is the best time to separate my peony bush?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./When is the best time to separate my peony bush? I would like to dig up part of it and put it in a sunny part of the yard.
You can dig and divide peonies from the time the foliage begins to die back (mid- to late summer) until about the first frost. Peonies are long-lived plants that do not like to be disturbed, but sometimes the trees around a peony create more shade than the plant can tolerate. To dig it up, start by cutting off all the foliage to about three inches above the soil. With a spading fork, loosen the soil in a circle around the plant. Continue digging and gently lifting the soil in this circle until you can lift out the crown of the plant. Don't worry about trying to dig down to get all the major roots. Once the crown is out of the ground, you can cut the plant into sections. Look at the top of the crown, right below where it was growing in the soil. It will have little buds. Every division you make should have a minimum of three buds to produce another peony. Use a sturdy knife or hatchet to cut through the woody crown and replant the divisions. The secret to a happy peony is well-prepared soil. Since peonies can live up to a hundred years without disturbance, take a little time now to give them good homes. Dig generous holes, add compost, and replant. To encourage fast bloom, be sure the top of each new plant is about two inches below the soil line. The divisions will probably not bloom the first year, but after that, you will have flowers for the rest of your life.
Q./When is the best time to separate my peony bush? I would like to dig up part of it and put it in a sunny part of the yard.
You can dig and divide peonies from the time the foliage begins to die back (mid- to late summer) until about the first frost. Peonies are long-lived plants that do not like to be disturbed, but sometimes the trees around a peony create more shade than the plant can tolerate. To dig it up, start by cutting off all the foliage to about three inches above the soil. With a spading fork, loosen the soil in a circle around the plant. Continue digging and gently lifting the soil in this circle until you can lift out the crown of the plant. Don't worry about trying to dig down to get all the major roots. Once the crown is out of the ground, you can cut the plant into sections. Look at the top of the crown, right below where it was growing in the soil. It will have little buds. Every division you make should have a minimum of three buds to produce another peony. Use a sturdy knife or hatchet to cut through the woody crown and replant the divisions. The secret to a happy peony is well-prepared soil. Since peonies can live up to a hundred years without disturbance, take a little time now to give them good homes. Dig generous holes, add compost, and replant. To encourage fast bloom, be sure the top of each new plant is about two inches below the soil line. The divisions will probably not bloom the first year, but after that, you will have flowers for the rest of your life.
Can I grow lettuce indoors?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./Can I grow lettuce indoors?
Yes, just use really good, moist potting soil, filling a plastic bag three-quarters full. Sprinkle a pinch of seeds on the soil and cover lightly with soil. Close the top of the bag, leaving one-inch open. Set the bag in a sunny window and when green shoots appear, open the bag more. Keep it in the sun and keep the soil moist with watering. The best temperature for your growing lettuce is between 65 and 70 degrees. When the shoots start getting large, start cutting the leaves and using them to eat.
Q./Can I grow lettuce indoors?
Yes, just use really good, moist potting soil, filling a plastic bag three-quarters full. Sprinkle a pinch of seeds on the soil and cover lightly with soil. Close the top of the bag, leaving one-inch open. Set the bag in a sunny window and when green shoots appear, open the bag more. Keep it in the sun and keep the soil moist with watering. The best temperature for your growing lettuce is between 65 and 70 degrees. When the shoots start getting large, start cutting the leaves and using them to eat.
Sunday, December 23, 2007
More information on slug control
I found an article on slug control that I would like to share with you. It's a little long, but full of lots of good info.
It is copied from: http://www.paghat.com/slugcontrol.html
Iron phosphate:
The first honestly effective snail & slug bait
Slug & snail baits with Metaldehyde (such as Ortho) are not very effective. They are also sufficiently toxic that such baits are not recommended for use around edible vegetables, & can be harmful to dogs, cats, & fish.
Iron phosphate is more effective than Metaldehyde because Metaldehyde ceases to be functional when it gets rained on or if you water the garden, whereas Iron phosphate remains active even with repeat wettings, easily up to two weeks.
Iron phosphate is completely safe for pets or beneficial insects, & is safe to use around vegetables. Sluggo & Escar-Go brands are two that consist of Iron phosphate. It's not as cheap as Metaldehyde, but then it's not money wasted as it is with other slug baits, & it's a garden nutrient rather than a toxic chemical, so worth a little more. Because Iron phosphate remains active longer, it requires less to be used to kill more slugs, so in fact it is more cost-effective.
Because Metaldehyde is such a crappy slug bait that doesn't really work, some products like Ortho Plus include carbaryl to increase its toxicity. Carbaryl kills beneficial insects & thereby destroys the natural balance of the garden.
Snails frequently recover from Metaldehyde poisoning if there is rainfall or access to wet locations where they will not fully dehydrate & die. A slug can lose half its body weight & shrink to a third its size from Metaldehyde poisoning or by covering it in salt, but if it can get itself to wet soil fast enough, or if it rains, it will recover. By contrast they never recover from Iron phosphate.
Metaldehyde is known to be fatally poisonous to dogs & wildlife even in the weak (4%) mixes sold as slug poison. Plus it is sufficiently toxic to humans that if it gets on vegetables, it would be illegal to sell them.
By contrast, Iron phosphate is non-toxic to dogs or wild animals, & can be used legally even around commercial crops. EPA's Office of Pesticide Program states that iron phosphate "has no unreasonable adverse effects to human health [nor] toxicity to birds, fish, insects." If a garter snake ate a slimy slug that was dying from injesting Iron phosphate, the garter snake would not be harmed, but if the same garter snake, or a dog, ate a dehydrating slug that had been exposed to Metaldehyde, it could be bad news for the health of an unhappy diner.
Metaldehyde products after being dampened no longer work, but they do mold & invite plant pathogens. Iron phosphate not only remains active after damped, but any that remains uneaten by slugs just breaks down into iron & phosphate which the plants take in like any other fertilizer.
The baits work differently. Metaldehyde poison dehydrates the snail or slug rather rapidly if it eats the poison on a warm day (though of course snails & slugs aren't usually about on warm dry days which is one reason it has limited effect; on a chill or a wet day slugs will not dehydrate, but will often recover from the toxin). Iron phosphate on the other hand induces extreme mucus production in molluscs, so that the snail or slug is no longer able to eat while more slowly its cells break down; it works at any temperature & the slugs will not recover due to rainfall.
In summation, you've choices. You can go with a Metaldehyde bait poisonous to cats, dogs, wild animals, people, that cannot be used around vegetables, & which doesn't work if the weather is cold or wet, which may need reapplication as often as daily to have noticeable effect, & with only small effect even under ideal conditions. Or you can have a non-toxic bait that is a plant nutrient harmless to animals & people, safe on vegetables, with longlasting effectivity unaffected by temperature or wetness -- i.e., any Iron phosphate product.
No other method works as well. Beer traps do attract slugs but don't reliably kill them unless the trap is deep enough slugs can't reach over the top to get out (so saucers don't work, slugs climb right off the saucers, but Yoplay yogurt plastic cups are just barely too deep for a slug to climb out of, so it drowns in the beer). Such a trap would also endanger frogs & small lizards & beneficial insects that per chance fell in, without really resulting in a dramatic lessening of the slug population.
The alleged method of slug control using spent coffeegrounds amounts to gardening folklore & doesn't work at all. See the article on the folklore vs the reality of Coffegrounds & Slugs.
Diatamacious Earth, when assessed in controlled studies, killed so few slugs that it has to be judged as worthless, though it does kill beneficial insects. Because Diatamacious Earth, which is almost pure silaca, is "organic," many organic gardeners try it, but it is the perfect example of why "organic" is not a magical synonym for "harmless." It is pretty much the same as dumping ground glass all over your garden.
For cold-frames or raised beds, it is possible to attach copper flashing to the frames. Slugs do not like to cross copper because it causes them to experience a minute electrical discharge (or such is the prevailing theory). It works only if the copper strip is wide enough they can't raise their bodies over it. The majority of copper stripping sold in garden shops for this purpose is not wide enough to create an effective barrier, which would need to be six inches wide, or the largest most destructive slugs will hump right over it without touching the copper.
Copper-barriering an entire garden is not going to be practical, but it is an excellent method for protecting very sensitive seedling beds or small containers. Copper screen or copper flashing can surround a raised bed, or for small planters, copper foil (such as Snail-Barr) can be used to wrap the entire container. Shrubs can have a band of copper around the lower trunk.
Copper needs to be cleaned periodically with vinegar or will tarnish & no longer have the desired effect. Personally I cannot imagine going about making rings of copper for all the shrubs or encircling gardens with copper mesh, risking my hands or the feet of animals that can be cut on the edges of copper, then remembering to periodically polish the copper scattered about the garden. But at least this is a system that can work, unlike so many folklorish methods & worthless toxins that desparate gardeners try.
The only other method that can honestly be argued to have merit is to go out at night with a flashlight & gather slugs by hand to drop in soapy water in a container they can't climb out of. If you gather up all the adults before they reproduce, things will get dramatically better slug-wise, the tiny ones you miss don't do the most damage.
The only thing benificial that would be harmed by Iron phosphate would be predacious snail-eating decollate snails. If a garden does have a perfect balance of snail-preditors (frogs, toads, garter snakes, ground beetles, ducks, & snail-eating snails) the balance might be thrown off by killing the preditory snails. It's the rarest of gardens where this kind of balance occurs; these snails are semi-tropical & don't thrive in temperate or cold gardens; & in some places where they would thrive, they are banned as potentially invasive species. But they are physically attractive snails, & if they do the work effectively for some gardeners, they should be encouraged to keep doing so, avoiding baits of any kind.
I don't want to be a shill for Sluggo but it's what I use, & it works so well that when I've killed off the adult slug population early in the year before they lay their eggs, I'm close to slug-free & snail-free the rest of the year without further applications. No bait other than Iron phosphate works alone as all others require one or more additonal methods to have any impact on a slug & snail population. My suspicion is that all products with ingredients other than Iron phosphate will over time vanish from the marketplace as people figure out Iron phoshate is actually effective, without sharing the harmful potential of less effective slug baits.
The best time for long-term control is to treat the whole garden in the dampness of autumn. That way, come spring, there will be very few adult slugs to lay their eggs. Another treatment might be useful in late winter or early spring. I've found that twice a year does the trick. And of all the things I ever tried previously, none of them achieved the level of effectiveness I now take for granted.
copyright © by Paghat the Ratgirl
It is copied from: http://www.paghat.com/slugcontrol.html
Iron phosphate:
The first honestly effective snail & slug bait
Slug & snail baits with Metaldehyde (such as Ortho) are not very effective. They are also sufficiently toxic that such baits are not recommended for use around edible vegetables, & can be harmful to dogs, cats, & fish.
Iron phosphate is more effective than Metaldehyde because Metaldehyde ceases to be functional when it gets rained on or if you water the garden, whereas Iron phosphate remains active even with repeat wettings, easily up to two weeks.
Iron phosphate is completely safe for pets or beneficial insects, & is safe to use around vegetables. Sluggo & Escar-Go brands are two that consist of Iron phosphate. It's not as cheap as Metaldehyde, but then it's not money wasted as it is with other slug baits, & it's a garden nutrient rather than a toxic chemical, so worth a little more. Because Iron phosphate remains active longer, it requires less to be used to kill more slugs, so in fact it is more cost-effective.
Because Metaldehyde is such a crappy slug bait that doesn't really work, some products like Ortho Plus include carbaryl to increase its toxicity. Carbaryl kills beneficial insects & thereby destroys the natural balance of the garden.
Snails frequently recover from Metaldehyde poisoning if there is rainfall or access to wet locations where they will not fully dehydrate & die. A slug can lose half its body weight & shrink to a third its size from Metaldehyde poisoning or by covering it in salt, but if it can get itself to wet soil fast enough, or if it rains, it will recover. By contrast they never recover from Iron phosphate.
Metaldehyde is known to be fatally poisonous to dogs & wildlife even in the weak (4%) mixes sold as slug poison. Plus it is sufficiently toxic to humans that if it gets on vegetables, it would be illegal to sell them.
By contrast, Iron phosphate is non-toxic to dogs or wild animals, & can be used legally even around commercial crops. EPA's Office of Pesticide Program states that iron phosphate "has no unreasonable adverse effects to human health [nor] toxicity to birds, fish, insects." If a garter snake ate a slimy slug that was dying from injesting Iron phosphate, the garter snake would not be harmed, but if the same garter snake, or a dog, ate a dehydrating slug that had been exposed to Metaldehyde, it could be bad news for the health of an unhappy diner.
Metaldehyde products after being dampened no longer work, but they do mold & invite plant pathogens. Iron phosphate not only remains active after damped, but any that remains uneaten by slugs just breaks down into iron & phosphate which the plants take in like any other fertilizer.
The baits work differently. Metaldehyde poison dehydrates the snail or slug rather rapidly if it eats the poison on a warm day (though of course snails & slugs aren't usually about on warm dry days which is one reason it has limited effect; on a chill or a wet day slugs will not dehydrate, but will often recover from the toxin). Iron phosphate on the other hand induces extreme mucus production in molluscs, so that the snail or slug is no longer able to eat while more slowly its cells break down; it works at any temperature & the slugs will not recover due to rainfall.
In summation, you've choices. You can go with a Metaldehyde bait poisonous to cats, dogs, wild animals, people, that cannot be used around vegetables, & which doesn't work if the weather is cold or wet, which may need reapplication as often as daily to have noticeable effect, & with only small effect even under ideal conditions. Or you can have a non-toxic bait that is a plant nutrient harmless to animals & people, safe on vegetables, with longlasting effectivity unaffected by temperature or wetness -- i.e., any Iron phosphate product.
No other method works as well. Beer traps do attract slugs but don't reliably kill them unless the trap is deep enough slugs can't reach over the top to get out (so saucers don't work, slugs climb right off the saucers, but Yoplay yogurt plastic cups are just barely too deep for a slug to climb out of, so it drowns in the beer). Such a trap would also endanger frogs & small lizards & beneficial insects that per chance fell in, without really resulting in a dramatic lessening of the slug population.
The alleged method of slug control using spent coffeegrounds amounts to gardening folklore & doesn't work at all. See the article on the folklore vs the reality of Coffegrounds & Slugs.
Diatamacious Earth, when assessed in controlled studies, killed so few slugs that it has to be judged as worthless, though it does kill beneficial insects. Because Diatamacious Earth, which is almost pure silaca, is "organic," many organic gardeners try it, but it is the perfect example of why "organic" is not a magical synonym for "harmless." It is pretty much the same as dumping ground glass all over your garden.
For cold-frames or raised beds, it is possible to attach copper flashing to the frames. Slugs do not like to cross copper because it causes them to experience a minute electrical discharge (or such is the prevailing theory). It works only if the copper strip is wide enough they can't raise their bodies over it. The majority of copper stripping sold in garden shops for this purpose is not wide enough to create an effective barrier, which would need to be six inches wide, or the largest most destructive slugs will hump right over it without touching the copper.
Copper-barriering an entire garden is not going to be practical, but it is an excellent method for protecting very sensitive seedling beds or small containers. Copper screen or copper flashing can surround a raised bed, or for small planters, copper foil (such as Snail-Barr) can be used to wrap the entire container. Shrubs can have a band of copper around the lower trunk.
Copper needs to be cleaned periodically with vinegar or will tarnish & no longer have the desired effect. Personally I cannot imagine going about making rings of copper for all the shrubs or encircling gardens with copper mesh, risking my hands or the feet of animals that can be cut on the edges of copper, then remembering to periodically polish the copper scattered about the garden. But at least this is a system that can work, unlike so many folklorish methods & worthless toxins that desparate gardeners try.
The only other method that can honestly be argued to have merit is to go out at night with a flashlight & gather slugs by hand to drop in soapy water in a container they can't climb out of. If you gather up all the adults before they reproduce, things will get dramatically better slug-wise, the tiny ones you miss don't do the most damage.
The only thing benificial that would be harmed by Iron phosphate would be predacious snail-eating decollate snails. If a garden does have a perfect balance of snail-preditors (frogs, toads, garter snakes, ground beetles, ducks, & snail-eating snails) the balance might be thrown off by killing the preditory snails. It's the rarest of gardens where this kind of balance occurs; these snails are semi-tropical & don't thrive in temperate or cold gardens; & in some places where they would thrive, they are banned as potentially invasive species. But they are physically attractive snails, & if they do the work effectively for some gardeners, they should be encouraged to keep doing so, avoiding baits of any kind.
I don't want to be a shill for Sluggo but it's what I use, & it works so well that when I've killed off the adult slug population early in the year before they lay their eggs, I'm close to slug-free & snail-free the rest of the year without further applications. No bait other than Iron phosphate works alone as all others require one or more additonal methods to have any impact on a slug & snail population. My suspicion is that all products with ingredients other than Iron phosphate will over time vanish from the marketplace as people figure out Iron phoshate is actually effective, without sharing the harmful potential of less effective slug baits.
The best time for long-term control is to treat the whole garden in the dampness of autumn. That way, come spring, there will be very few adult slugs to lay their eggs. Another treatment might be useful in late winter or early spring. I've found that twice a year does the trick. And of all the things I ever tried previously, none of them achieved the level of effectiveness I now take for granted.
copyright © by Paghat the Ratgirl
Friday, December 21, 2007
I got some bulbs late last fall and didn't find time to plant them.
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./ I got some bulbs late last fall and didn't find time to plant them. They've been in my barn. Can I plant them in the spring?
Your bulbs have missed out on the opportunity to root underground during the winter, so don't put them directly into the ground. Pot them in pots immediately, water them heavily, and leave them in the barn. When they start to sprout, bring them indoors, let them bloom, then plant them outside when the weather warms up and the bloom is gone. From there, they'll continue growing for years. Go luck.
Q./ I got some bulbs late last fall and didn't find time to plant them. They've been in my barn. Can I plant them in the spring?
Your bulbs have missed out on the opportunity to root underground during the winter, so don't put them directly into the ground. Pot them in pots immediately, water them heavily, and leave them in the barn. When they start to sprout, bring them indoors, let them bloom, then plant them outside when the weather warms up and the bloom is gone. From there, they'll continue growing for years. Go luck.
Can I grow carnivorous plants in my garden?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./ Can I grow carnivorous plants in my garden?
Most carnivorous plants require humid conditions (50 percent or higher) in the summer and no hard freezes in the winter. A backyard bog may be one way to develop an environment for carnivorous plants, which prefer the same conditions as the wild habitats in which they usually grow. A bog may mimic this, or you might try growing something carnivorous in a terrarium or greenhouse. They are not easy to grow, so don't be discouraged.
We're bound to hear this question ... of some of the other interesting plants in nature. I wonder why my wife has been nuturing the man eater in the garden?
Q./ Can I grow carnivorous plants in my garden?
Most carnivorous plants require humid conditions (50 percent or higher) in the summer and no hard freezes in the winter. A backyard bog may be one way to develop an environment for carnivorous plants, which prefer the same conditions as the wild habitats in which they usually grow. A bog may mimic this, or you might try growing something carnivorous in a terrarium or greenhouse. They are not easy to grow, so don't be discouraged.
We're bound to hear this question ... of some of the other interesting plants in nature. I wonder why my wife has been nuturing the man eater in the garden?
What's the best way to plant a clematis?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./ What's the best way to plant a clematis?
First, give them a site where their roots can be shaded and cool and their tops in full sun. Planting them with a ground cover or surrounded by mulch can accomplish this. They will also appreciate a loose soil giving their roots plenty of room to grow. Once they're in the ground, don't disturb them. They hate that. Keep the soil moist always during the first year.
Q./ What's the best way to plant a clematis?
First, give them a site where their roots can be shaded and cool and their tops in full sun. Planting them with a ground cover or surrounded by mulch can accomplish this. They will also appreciate a loose soil giving their roots plenty of room to grow. Once they're in the ground, don't disturb them. They hate that. Keep the soil moist always during the first year.
Growing pickling spices
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./ I plan to can pickles when they're ready for harvesting and would like to grow my own pickling spices. What would you suggest?
Choose garlic, coriander, and dill, which are great choices for all kinds of pickling. Plant dill directly into your garden, as soon as the soil can be worked. Plant in rows 1/4 inch deep. Plant garlic cloves early in the spring, setting cloves 2 inches deep in moist, sandy soil. Sow coriander directly into the garden, 1 inch deep.
Q./ I plan to can pickles when they're ready for harvesting and would like to grow my own pickling spices. What would you suggest?
Choose garlic, coriander, and dill, which are great choices for all kinds of pickling. Plant dill directly into your garden, as soon as the soil can be worked. Plant in rows 1/4 inch deep. Plant garlic cloves early in the spring, setting cloves 2 inches deep in moist, sandy soil. Sow coriander directly into the garden, 1 inch deep.
I love my compost pile, but how can I control the gnats and flies that swarm around it?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./ I love my compost pile, but how can I control the gnats and flies that swarm around it?
If you're getting hundreds of this pests, it's probably because your compost pile is not appropriately aerated. A few bugs are expected, of course, but try stirring your pile up more often. Make sure grass clippings, for example, are well mixed with leaves to ensure they're getting air as they decompose. If your compost pile smells bad, that's also a sure sign you need more aeration.
Q./ I love my compost pile, but how can I control the gnats and flies that swarm around it?
If you're getting hundreds of this pests, it's probably because your compost pile is not appropriately aerated. A few bugs are expected, of course, but try stirring your pile up more often. Make sure grass clippings, for example, are well mixed with leaves to ensure they're getting air as they decompose. If your compost pile smells bad, that's also a sure sign you need more aeration.
How can I keep my beans and melons free of spider mites this summer?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./ How can I keep my beans and melons free of spider mites this summer?
If you have hot, dry weather, these guys are going to bug you, that's for sure. Spider mites don't take well to high humidity and moist soil, so one strategy is to keep your plants well mulched and mist them regularly, especially if the weather has been dry. If you see the tiny spider webs forming, squirt them with a hose to break them apart. If you have to resort to insecticidal spray, keep it up for at least three weeks so that you also get rid of the maturing mites as they hatch from their eggs.
But then - you have to be cautious of too much moisture. There are a myriad of problems that can arise.
Q./ How can I keep my beans and melons free of spider mites this summer?
If you have hot, dry weather, these guys are going to bug you, that's for sure. Spider mites don't take well to high humidity and moist soil, so one strategy is to keep your plants well mulched and mist them regularly, especially if the weather has been dry. If you see the tiny spider webs forming, squirt them with a hose to break them apart. If you have to resort to insecticidal spray, keep it up for at least three weeks so that you also get rid of the maturing mites as they hatch from their eggs.
But then - you have to be cautious of too much moisture. There are a myriad of problems that can arise.
I want to plant roses, but sunlight is scarce in my yard. Can I do it?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./ I want to plant roses, but sunlight is scarce in my yard. Can I do it?
Roses really prefer a minimum of five to six hours of full sun per day, and will appreciate even more than that.
Q./ I want to plant roses, but sunlight is scarce in my yard. Can I do it?
Roses really prefer a minimum of five to six hours of full sun per day, and will appreciate even more than that.
Does it matter whether the water I use on my garden is hot or cold?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./ Does it matter whether the water I use on my garden is hot or cold?
Some think it does matter and recommend tepid water. They allege that foliage will grow vigorously and flowers be larger if you always water with warm water, rather than some, say, directly from a very cold well or cistern. If this is a challenge for you, just fill up a large container and let it stand until the water warms up.
We have to comment on this ... We use only water at ambient temperature - generally out of the rain barrels. We have often seen plantings - especially the newer sprouts,- - go into shock as they are watered with frigid well water. Some do not survive. Kinda takes you back to having the hot water rerouted when your having a shower!
Q./ Does it matter whether the water I use on my garden is hot or cold?
Some think it does matter and recommend tepid water. They allege that foliage will grow vigorously and flowers be larger if you always water with warm water, rather than some, say, directly from a very cold well or cistern. If this is a challenge for you, just fill up a large container and let it stand until the water warms up.
We have to comment on this ... We use only water at ambient temperature - generally out of the rain barrels. We have often seen plantings - especially the newer sprouts,- - go into shock as they are watered with frigid well water. Some do not survive. Kinda takes you back to having the hot water rerouted when your having a shower!
My peas mature all at once and get too big before I can pick them. Can I plant in succession?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./ My peas mature all at once and get too big before I can pick them. Can I plant in succession?
If you are in a place with cool summers, you can do this with success. However, it your summers are very hot, the late plantings, unfortunately, will catch up to the earlier ones. You might try planting several varieties instead. Check the packages. Varieties like Blue Bantam mature 10 days later than many of the common ones. Pick your peas everyday when they ripen to ensure maximum production.
Q./ My peas mature all at once and get too big before I can pick them. Can I plant in succession?
If you are in a place with cool summers, you can do this with success. However, it your summers are very hot, the late plantings, unfortunately, will catch up to the earlier ones. You might try planting several varieties instead. Check the packages. Varieties like Blue Bantam mature 10 days later than many of the common ones. Pick your peas everyday when they ripen to ensure maximum production.
Should I prune the lush bunches of thyme in my herb garden?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./ Should I prune the lush bunches of thyme in my herb garden?
Yes, you should prune thyme heavily, taking half the length of each stem in spring and again in late summer. Use your trimmings, with some oil, to saute scallops or chicken.
Q./ Should I prune the lush bunches of thyme in my herb garden?
Yes, you should prune thyme heavily, taking half the length of each stem in spring and again in late summer. Use your trimmings, with some oil, to saute scallops or chicken.
I've heard that sage is bad luck. Is that true?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./ I've heard that sage is bad luck. Is that true?
There is a saying that goes, "It's bad luck to plant sage in your own garden. Call a stranger to do the job." But it is also thought that if you have sage in your garden, you'll do well in business. Further, "Eat sage in May, and you will be immortal." Go figure.
And where did these sayings come from ... and why ask an old farmer. For once, I feel glad I didn't know the answers to this one. !!!
Q./ I've heard that sage is bad luck. Is that true?
There is a saying that goes, "It's bad luck to plant sage in your own garden. Call a stranger to do the job." But it is also thought that if you have sage in your garden, you'll do well in business. Further, "Eat sage in May, and you will be immortal." Go figure.
And where did these sayings come from ... and why ask an old farmer. For once, I feel glad I didn't know the answers to this one. !!!
How can I grow my onions sweet rather than strong and spicy?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./ How can I grow my onions sweet rather than strong and spicy?
If your onions are too strong and spicy, you haven't watered them enough. Don't be fooled by healthy-looking green stalks. The stalks will be green even if the onions are too dry. The secret to sweeter onions is water, water, water.
Q./ How can I grow my onions sweet rather than strong and spicy?
If your onions are too strong and spicy, you haven't watered them enough. Don't be fooled by healthy-looking green stalks. The stalks will be green even if the onions are too dry. The secret to sweeter onions is water, water, water.
Can you suggest a homemade spray for controlling aphids?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./ Can you suggest a homemade spray for controlling aphids?
Try this mixture to control aphids, whiteflies, and even destructive beetles: 2 parts rubbing alcohol, 5 parts water, and 1 tablespoon liquid soap. Spray the mixture on the foliage of garden plants that are susceptible to these pests.
Q./ Can you suggest a homemade spray for controlling aphids?
Try this mixture to control aphids, whiteflies, and even destructive beetles: 2 parts rubbing alcohol, 5 parts water, and 1 tablespoon liquid soap. Spray the mixture on the foliage of garden plants that are susceptible to these pests.
How can I make my own potting soil for container gardening?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./ How can I make my own potting soil for container gardening?
A good mixture for potted vegetables or flowers is equal parts peat moss, rich garden soil, and sand. Mix well with a trowel.
Q./ How can I make my own potting soil for container gardening?
A good mixture for potted vegetables or flowers is equal parts peat moss, rich garden soil, and sand. Mix well with a trowel.
Last season's mulch has a whitish yellow fungus-type covering on it. What is this?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./ Last season's mulch has a whitish yellow fungus-type covering on it. What is this?
Most mulches are mixtures of shredded wood and bark residues, and they decompose over time. Fungi and bacteria always accompany the decomposing process. Sometimes the fungi become visible. You may be dealing with a "slime mold," which is usually bright yellow or orange and can grow from several inches to more than a foot in diameter. This type of mold will dry out and turn brown, leaving a white powder behind. If you want to get rid of the slime, you can dump it in your compost pile or household garbage.
And I was thinking this would be a job for the Ghost Busters!
Q./ Last season's mulch has a whitish yellow fungus-type covering on it. What is this?
Most mulches are mixtures of shredded wood and bark residues, and they decompose over time. Fungi and bacteria always accompany the decomposing process. Sometimes the fungi become visible. You may be dealing with a "slime mold," which is usually bright yellow or orange and can grow from several inches to more than a foot in diameter. This type of mold will dry out and turn brown, leaving a white powder behind. If you want to get rid of the slime, you can dump it in your compost pile or household garbage.
And I was thinking this would be a job for the Ghost Busters!
Should climbing roses be trimmed back the same as other roses?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./ Should climbing roses be trimmed back the same as other roses?
Yes, but avoid pruning them too much. Novice rose growers often make that mistake. Climbing varieties usually fare better with light pruning. Generally, you should trim them after they bloom, to make room for new blooms. Different varieties behave differently, though, so you should consult your local nursery to find out what is best for your variety. No rose will bloom well if its blossoms don't get enough sunshine and air because they are too crowded.
Q./ Should climbing roses be trimmed back the same as other roses?
Yes, but avoid pruning them too much. Novice rose growers often make that mistake. Climbing varieties usually fare better with light pruning. Generally, you should trim them after they bloom, to make room for new blooms. Different varieties behave differently, though, so you should consult your local nursery to find out what is best for your variety. No rose will bloom well if its blossoms don't get enough sunshine and air because they are too crowded.
What causes my otherwise great black raspberries to have little dry, brown spots on the berry?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./ What causes my otherwise great black raspberries to have little dry, brown spots on the berry?
Probably what you're seeing is the result of wasps, hornets, stinkbugs or other bucks helping themselves to the juice inside the little drupelets. They can such out the juice in just a few of these and leave the rest of the berry intact. If it gets out of hand, consider protect your bush with fine netting.
Q./ What causes my otherwise great black raspberries to have little dry, brown spots on the berry?
Probably what you're seeing is the result of wasps, hornets, stinkbugs or other bucks helping themselves to the juice inside the little drupelets. They can such out the juice in just a few of these and leave the rest of the berry intact. If it gets out of hand, consider protect your bush with fine netting.
Onion maggots
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./ Last spring I had onion plants turn yellow and when I pulled a few up, they were infested with maggots! How can I prevent this?
Cover your emerging onion crop with a fine mesh netting. Seal it by mounding soil around the edges. The onion maggot likes to lay its eggs at the base of plants, so the netting should prevent that. You should also keep mulch away because the insects like decaying organic matter, and make sure you completely harvest your onions as the season progresses. Onion maggots are usually a problem in very rainy periods, so these precautions may be unnecessary if you have a dry season.
Q./ Last spring I had onion plants turn yellow and when I pulled a few up, they were infested with maggots! How can I prevent this?
Cover your emerging onion crop with a fine mesh netting. Seal it by mounding soil around the edges. The onion maggot likes to lay its eggs at the base of plants, so the netting should prevent that. You should also keep mulch away because the insects like decaying organic matter, and make sure you completely harvest your onions as the season progresses. Onion maggots are usually a problem in very rainy periods, so these precautions may be unnecessary if you have a dry season.
I'm advised to "hill" my potatoes, but how?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./ I'm advised to "hill" my potatoes, but how?
Hilling should be done before the potato plants bloom. Just hoe the dirt up around the base of the plant in order to cover the root as well as to support the plant. Bury them in loose soil. The idea is to keep the potato from getting sunburned, in which case they turn green and will taste bitter.
I'm feeling more like the Old Farmer every day! I remember the gardens my Mom and Dad used to maintain as we were growing up ... and then my wife maintaining the hills in the same fashion as we had our own gardens.
Q./ I'm advised to "hill" my potatoes, but how?
Hilling should be done before the potato plants bloom. Just hoe the dirt up around the base of the plant in order to cover the root as well as to support the plant. Bury them in loose soil. The idea is to keep the potato from getting sunburned, in which case they turn green and will taste bitter.
I'm feeling more like the Old Farmer every day! I remember the gardens my Mom and Dad used to maintain as we were growing up ... and then my wife maintaining the hills in the same fashion as we had our own gardens.
How did folks can vegetables and keep them over the winter before freezers and canning jars?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./ How did folks can vegetables and keep them over the winter before freezers and canning jars?
There were differing methods of preservation, depending upon the resources of the family and the climate. For example, green beans could be stored in a barrel or keg, layered with large quantities of salt. When the container was full, the beans were covered with a board, and the board was weighted. The salt would pull the moisture out of the beans, then make a brine. The beans were then taken out to use and soaked and rinsed several times to remove the salt. Root crops such as carrots, beets, parsnips and potatoes could be covered with sand or earth in the cellar until used. Since these can sprout easily, they were watched and the sprouts cut off. Turnip sprouts were used as salad greens. Onions were strung up and dried.
These methods are still used. Not all the world has freezers and access to canned goods. And then there are processes like making saur kraut ... the memories of a neighbour from my childhood come back vividly. The neighbour, of German background, made an annual batch. It could be sensed a block away as it was stored in their garage.
Q./ How did folks can vegetables and keep them over the winter before freezers and canning jars?
There were differing methods of preservation, depending upon the resources of the family and the climate. For example, green beans could be stored in a barrel or keg, layered with large quantities of salt. When the container was full, the beans were covered with a board, and the board was weighted. The salt would pull the moisture out of the beans, then make a brine. The beans were then taken out to use and soaked and rinsed several times to remove the salt. Root crops such as carrots, beets, parsnips and potatoes could be covered with sand or earth in the cellar until used. Since these can sprout easily, they were watched and the sprouts cut off. Turnip sprouts were used as salad greens. Onions were strung up and dried.
These methods are still used. Not all the world has freezers and access to canned goods. And then there are processes like making saur kraut ... the memories of a neighbour from my childhood come back vividly. The neighbour, of German background, made an annual batch. It could be sensed a block away as it was stored in their garage.
Have you ever heard of rose wine?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./ Have you ever heard of rose wine?
Yes, though we have to admit we've never tried it-and we're not convinced it's the best use for beautiful rose petals! We found this recipe in an old book: Pour one gallon of boiling water over 3 to 4 quarts of petals lightly packed. Toss in the cut up rind of 2 oranges and 3 pounds of sugar. Boil for 20 minutes, cool, strain, and add a package of yeast dissolved in warm water. Add the juice from the two oranges and 4 or 5 white peppercorns. Let all ferment in a covered crock for 2 weeks, then strain, discard petals, and bottle in sterilized jars, corking lightly. Wine will be ready in about three months.
Many have come to know the uses of rose hips, for the use of tea. I understand this part of a spent flower can also be used in making wine.
Q./ Have you ever heard of rose wine?
Yes, though we have to admit we've never tried it-and we're not convinced it's the best use for beautiful rose petals! We found this recipe in an old book: Pour one gallon of boiling water over 3 to 4 quarts of petals lightly packed. Toss in the cut up rind of 2 oranges and 3 pounds of sugar. Boil for 20 minutes, cool, strain, and add a package of yeast dissolved in warm water. Add the juice from the two oranges and 4 or 5 white peppercorns. Let all ferment in a covered crock for 2 weeks, then strain, discard petals, and bottle in sterilized jars, corking lightly. Wine will be ready in about three months.
Many have come to know the uses of rose hips, for the use of tea. I understand this part of a spent flower can also be used in making wine.
Have you heard of pigweed being eaten as a green?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./ Have you heard of pigweed being eaten as a green?
Yes! In June, the young leaves of amaranthus blitum or amaranth are abundant and should be eaten because of their high nutritional content. Vitamin-wise, these greens are packed like carrots and beets and can be delicious in a tossed salad. You can also cook them as you would spinach. Native Americans used the black seeds of this plant as a ground meal for baking.
One of the main things a gardener atests to - is ... there are no weeds! ... Well o.k. - maybe some. Weeds are those for which you have no use for. The pigweeds can stay ... in spite the name. I will use amaranthus from now on. It doesn't sound like a weed.
Q./ Have you heard of pigweed being eaten as a green?
Yes! In June, the young leaves of amaranthus blitum or amaranth are abundant and should be eaten because of their high nutritional content. Vitamin-wise, these greens are packed like carrots and beets and can be delicious in a tossed salad. You can also cook them as you would spinach. Native Americans used the black seeds of this plant as a ground meal for baking.
One of the main things a gardener atests to - is ... there are no weeds! ... Well o.k. - maybe some. Weeds are those for which you have no use for. The pigweeds can stay ... in spite the name. I will use amaranthus from now on. It doesn't sound like a weed.
Is the day lily edible?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./ Is the day lily edible?
Almost every part of the lily is suitable for eating. It goes well with pork and soy sauce, a nod to its Chinese heritage. You can eat the green buds of day lilies. Here's a recipe: boil a few day lily buds and add them to herb butter. Make herb butter with 1/2 cup creamed butter, 1/2 tablespoon finely chopped parsley and 1/1/2 tablespoons of chopped savory. Add lemon juice and seasonings to taste. You can eat the tubers of lilies all summer, even after the blooms have gone away. Eat them like radishes or chopped into salads.
Q./ Is the day lily edible?
Almost every part of the lily is suitable for eating. It goes well with pork and soy sauce, a nod to its Chinese heritage. You can eat the green buds of day lilies. Here's a recipe: boil a few day lily buds and add them to herb butter. Make herb butter with 1/2 cup creamed butter, 1/2 tablespoon finely chopped parsley and 1/1/2 tablespoons of chopped savory. Add lemon juice and seasonings to taste. You can eat the tubers of lilies all summer, even after the blooms have gone away. Eat them like radishes or chopped into salads.
What is leaf mold and how is it best used?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./ What is leaf mold and how is it best used?
Leaf mold is a special kind of compost that is solely made up of decomposed leaves. It decomposes through a fungus, rather than the bacteria that is responsible for the development of regular compost. Leaf mold composting creates a very nutrient and mineral rich addition to your soil and is great for mixing in with your potting soil to improve fertility, or to use as a top dressing on planting beds. Made into a tea or a foliar spray, it can help develop robust plants. It can take quite a while to create a large supply of leaf mold, from 9 months to 3 years depending upon moisture conditions. Just pile up the leaves and leave them alone. Most folks use a wire mesh holding bin
Q./ What is leaf mold and how is it best used?
Leaf mold is a special kind of compost that is solely made up of decomposed leaves. It decomposes through a fungus, rather than the bacteria that is responsible for the development of regular compost. Leaf mold composting creates a very nutrient and mineral rich addition to your soil and is great for mixing in with your potting soil to improve fertility, or to use as a top dressing on planting beds. Made into a tea or a foliar spray, it can help develop robust plants. It can take quite a while to create a large supply of leaf mold, from 9 months to 3 years depending upon moisture conditions. Just pile up the leaves and leave them alone. Most folks use a wire mesh holding bin
How do you control cutworms?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./ How do you control cutworms?
For cutworm control, check the plant beds and newly set plants often. These critters can do a lot of damage in no time at all. They especially like cloudy days, late afternoons and nighttime for feeding. Apply an insecticide late in the afternoon for best control.
Q./ How do you control cutworms?
For cutworm control, check the plant beds and newly set plants often. These critters can do a lot of damage in no time at all. They especially like cloudy days, late afternoons and nighttime for feeding. Apply an insecticide late in the afternoon for best control.
Will my parsley last more than one year?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./ Will my parsley last more than one year?
Yes, you should be able to harvest parsley from one plant for two years in a row. It is a biennial, growing a plant the first year and sending up a seed stalk or flowers the second year. As long as the plant is not in excessive high heat or excessive cold, you can harvest in the second year after removing the flower stalk. Pick only the mature leaves.
Q./ Will my parsley last more than one year?
Yes, you should be able to harvest parsley from one plant for two years in a row. It is a biennial, growing a plant the first year and sending up a seed stalk or flowers the second year. As long as the plant is not in excessive high heat or excessive cold, you can harvest in the second year after removing the flower stalk. Pick only the mature leaves.
I've noticed VFNT on tomato plants and seed packages. What does it mean?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./ I've noticed VFNT on tomato plants and seed packages. What does it mean?
These letters indicate that the particular tomato variety is resistant to verticillium wilt, fusarium wilt, nematodes, and tobacco mosaic virus. You'll find most newer hybrid varieties have the VFNT label.
I have an occasional smoke of my pipe in the cold frame ... and am subject to the wrath of the real master gardener ... due to the threat on the tomatoes. Now I know there are some varieties that offer a lot more resistance than I do.
Q./ I've noticed VFNT on tomato plants and seed packages. What does it mean?
These letters indicate that the particular tomato variety is resistant to verticillium wilt, fusarium wilt, nematodes, and tobacco mosaic virus. You'll find most newer hybrid varieties have the VFNT label.
I have an occasional smoke of my pipe in the cold frame ... and am subject to the wrath of the real master gardener ... due to the threat on the tomatoes. Now I know there are some varieties that offer a lot more resistance than I do.
My green beans come up with only two leaves, and sometimes no leaves. What's wrong?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./ My green beans come up with only two leaves, and sometimes no leaves. What's wrong?
Damaged or cracked seeds at planting time may be the culprit. The condition is called "snake head" or "bald head." A better quality seed next time and keeping the soil very moist should eliminate the problem.
Q./ My green beans come up with only two leaves, and sometimes no leaves. What's wrong?
Damaged or cracked seeds at planting time may be the culprit. The condition is called "snake head" or "bald head." A better quality seed next time and keeping the soil very moist should eliminate the problem.
What is the white mold that grows on strawberries in the refrigerator?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./ What is the white mold that grows on strawberries in the refrigerator?
It is a fungus-type microorganism that grows from spores in the air. (Guest Expert Patricia Wright, Spokane Washington)
And we thought it was the next miracle cure ... but maybe it still is?
Q./ What is the white mold that grows on strawberries in the refrigerator?
It is a fungus-type microorganism that grows from spores in the air. (Guest Expert Patricia Wright, Spokane Washington)
And we thought it was the next miracle cure ... but maybe it still is?
Should I stake my Chinese pea pods as they grow?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./Should I stake my Chinese pea pods as they grow?
Since snow peas like these grow in bush form, you shouldn't have to stake them. This cool-weather crop will quickly go to seed in some areas of the country, however, so you may want to plant them again for a late-summer harvest. Water your plants early in the day until the weather gets very hot, then wait for early evening.
Q./Should I stake my Chinese pea pods as they grow?
Since snow peas like these grow in bush form, you shouldn't have to stake them. This cool-weather crop will quickly go to seed in some areas of the country, however, so you may want to plant them again for a late-summer harvest. Water your plants early in the day until the weather gets very hot, then wait for early evening.
I often lose my snow peas in mid-July. How can I prevent this?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./I often lose my snow peas in mid-July. How can I prevent this?
As you probably know, peas love cool weather. Plant them early in the spring--the sooner the better. Summer's highest temperatures will prevent the blossoms from setting and will leave the pods drying on the vine. That's most likely what has happened to your peas in the past.
Q./I often lose my snow peas in mid-July. How can I prevent this?
As you probably know, peas love cool weather. Plant them early in the spring--the sooner the better. Summer's highest temperatures will prevent the blossoms from setting and will leave the pods drying on the vine. That's most likely what has happened to your peas in the past.
Why are the edges of the leaves on my tomato plant turning brown?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./Why are the edges of the leaves on my tomato plant turning brown?
If there have been numerous changes in temperature in your area, this might account for the browning. Cool spells can do this to plant leaves. If you think that's the case and more cool weather is predicted, you might want to protect them with some makeshift shields until warmer weather returns.
Q./Why are the edges of the leaves on my tomato plant turning brown?
If there have been numerous changes in temperature in your area, this might account for the browning. Cool spells can do this to plant leaves. If you think that's the case and more cool weather is predicted, you might want to protect them with some makeshift shields until warmer weather returns.
My tomatoes have a tough spot with small yellow specks.
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./My tomatoes have a tough spot with small yellow specks. We have to cut the spot off before eating. What is this?
Most likely the yellow specks are caused by an insect, probably a stinkbug or leaf-footed bug. You'll have to control those pests in your garden next season to avoid having the same problem again.
There are uncountable causes. Ideally, you have a bug sample ... and a picture can be compared to the common type of infestations.
Q./My tomatoes have a tough spot with small yellow specks. We have to cut the spot off before eating. What is this?
Most likely the yellow specks are caused by an insect, probably a stinkbug or leaf-footed bug. You'll have to control those pests in your garden next season to avoid having the same problem again.
There are uncountable causes. Ideally, you have a bug sample ... and a picture can be compared to the common type of infestations.
My sprouts don't develop into nice firm heads, but only loose leaves.
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./My sprouts don't develop into nice firm heads, but only loose leaves. What is wrong?
If the sprouts experienced extremely hot weather while they were in an important stage of early growth, it may have had this adverse effect on the sprout heads. A way to avoid this might be to use transplants instead of seed next growing season and be sure to maintain ample moisture.
Q./My sprouts don't develop into nice firm heads, but only loose leaves. What is wrong?
If the sprouts experienced extremely hot weather while they were in an important stage of early growth, it may have had this adverse effect on the sprout heads. A way to avoid this might be to use transplants instead of seed next growing season and be sure to maintain ample moisture.
What's the best way to dry rose petals?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./What's the best way to dry rose petals?
Spread them thinly on tissue paper or a wire screen and place them where there will be plenty of ventilation. Don't put them in direct sunshine. Drying will take several days, depending upon the rose variety and moisture content. When dry, mix them with cloves for a fragrant mix, but don't overdo it.
Q./What's the best way to dry rose petals?
Spread them thinly on tissue paper or a wire screen and place them where there will be plenty of ventilation. Don't put them in direct sunshine. Drying will take several days, depending upon the rose variety and moisture content. When dry, mix them with cloves for a fragrant mix, but don't overdo it.
How can I repair brown spots in the lawn caused by my dogs?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./How can I repair brown spots in the lawn caused by my dogs?
Dig out the dead grass and roots with a spade, fill the holes with topsoil, and rake it through. Then spread grass seed over the topsoil as recommended on the package. Rake it lightly and mulch with a thin layer of straw or salt hay. Water well for four to six weeks. Don't compost the clumps you dug out; they could contain harmful by-products. A better solution is to train your dog to use only one area of your lawn where you have laid out bark mulch, kitty litter, or another absorbent material. Just change the material as needed.
Top dressing skills are essential in home lawn maintenance.
Q./How can I repair brown spots in the lawn caused by my dogs?
Dig out the dead grass and roots with a spade, fill the holes with topsoil, and rake it through. Then spread grass seed over the topsoil as recommended on the package. Rake it lightly and mulch with a thin layer of straw or salt hay. Water well for four to six weeks. Don't compost the clumps you dug out; they could contain harmful by-products. A better solution is to train your dog to use only one area of your lawn where you have laid out bark mulch, kitty litter, or another absorbent material. Just change the material as needed.
Top dressing skills are essential in home lawn maintenance.
Do earwigs get in one's ears?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./Do earwigs get in one's ears?
No, not generally. The name "earwig" comes from the Old English ear-wicga, which means "ear insect." The insect was so named not because it enters the ears, however, but because its hind wings are shaped like the human ear.
Not generally .. ? What does that mean? I remember one of those Alfred Hitchcock type stories to this day ...
Q./Do earwigs get in one's ears?
No, not generally. The name "earwig" comes from the Old English ear-wicga, which means "ear insect." The insect was so named not because it enters the ears, however, but because its hind wings are shaped like the human ear.
Not generally .. ? What does that mean? I remember one of those Alfred Hitchcock type stories to this day ...
Thursday, December 20, 2007
Can I plant lettuce in fall to come up in spring?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./Can I plant lettuce in fall to come up in spring?
Yes, gardeners in northern climates can harvest early-spring lettuce--as well as spinach, kale, garlic, and parsley--if it's planted just before the cold weather arrives in fall. Protect the young plants with a cold frame or thick mulch through the winter, then remove the protection when soil temperature in your area reaches 40 degrees F. Water the new plants well in spring.
Q./Can I plant lettuce in fall to come up in spring?
Yes, gardeners in northern climates can harvest early-spring lettuce--as well as spinach, kale, garlic, and parsley--if it's planted just before the cold weather arrives in fall. Protect the young plants with a cold frame or thick mulch through the winter, then remove the protection when soil temperature in your area reaches 40 degrees F. Water the new plants well in spring.
Is it possible to use pine needles and oak leaves as a mulch
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./Is it possible to use pine needles and oak leaves as a mulch for plants such as tomatoes, broccoli, brussels sprouts, basil, and bell peppers without adverse results?
Yes, you can create a mulch from oak leaves, pine bark nuggets, pine needles, or fully composted wood chips. This type of mulch is especially good for protecting shallow-rooted plants.
Q./Is it possible to use pine needles and oak leaves as a mulch for plants such as tomatoes, broccoli, brussels sprouts, basil, and bell peppers without adverse results?
Yes, you can create a mulch from oak leaves, pine bark nuggets, pine needles, or fully composted wood chips. This type of mulch is especially good for protecting shallow-rooted plants.
Is it possible for grass to get too much water?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./Is it possible for grass to get too much water?
Overwatering or too much rain can cause problems. Too much water will leach nutrients, especially nitrogen, from the soil, leaving the grass discolored. Nitrogen-starved grass also is more susceptible to certain diseases. Ideally, grass should receive 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water per week to grow well. Water should be applied to the lawn in as few applications as possible. Delivering 1 inch of water at once will allow it to penetrate deeper into the soil and encourage healthy roots. Many short waterings will not soak into the soil, and the roots will remain close to the surface, making the grass much more susceptible to drought and thatch buildup. When working with sandy or heavy, compacted clay soils, several water applications may be necessary. In sandy soils, the water will percolate through quickly and will not be available to the roots after a few days. In compacted clay soils, the water will not penetrate fast enough and will tend to run off the surface.
Q./Is it possible for grass to get too much water?
Overwatering or too much rain can cause problems. Too much water will leach nutrients, especially nitrogen, from the soil, leaving the grass discolored. Nitrogen-starved grass also is more susceptible to certain diseases. Ideally, grass should receive 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water per week to grow well. Water should be applied to the lawn in as few applications as possible. Delivering 1 inch of water at once will allow it to penetrate deeper into the soil and encourage healthy roots. Many short waterings will not soak into the soil, and the roots will remain close to the surface, making the grass much more susceptible to drought and thatch buildup. When working with sandy or heavy, compacted clay soils, several water applications may be necessary. In sandy soils, the water will percolate through quickly and will not be available to the roots after a few days. In compacted clay soils, the water will not penetrate fast enough and will tend to run off the surface.
I have voles in my backyard. How can I get rid of them?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./I have voles in my backyard. How can I get rid of them?
You have to make your yard inhospitable to them. Voles like dense, heavy vegetative cover, mulch, and weeds because it provides them with food and protects them from predators. If you remove these things, you'll discourage voles. Next, locate the areas where they feed by setting out food. Once you've pinpointed these spots, decide whether you want to try to trap them or bait them with a registered rodenticide. Another great control method might be an outdoor cat.
We go with the cat solution.
Q./I have voles in my backyard. How can I get rid of them?
You have to make your yard inhospitable to them. Voles like dense, heavy vegetative cover, mulch, and weeds because it provides them with food and protects them from predators. If you remove these things, you'll discourage voles. Next, locate the areas where they feed by setting out food. Once you've pinpointed these spots, decide whether you want to try to trap them or bait them with a registered rodenticide. Another great control method might be an outdoor cat.
We go with the cat solution.
When is it best to plant silver maple trees?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./When is it best to plant silver maple trees? Do they grow fast?
As soon as the frost is out of the ground in spring is the best time to plant these trees. The soil is moist, the climate is mild, and the trees can establish themselves quickly. With a full growing season ahead, they'll get a head start on competing weeds and brush. Planting any forest tree in the fall is often less successful.
Q./When is it best to plant silver maple trees? Do they grow fast?
As soon as the frost is out of the ground in spring is the best time to plant these trees. The soil is moist, the climate is mild, and the trees can establish themselves quickly. With a full growing season ahead, they'll get a head start on competing weeds and brush. Planting any forest tree in the fall is often less successful.
Should tomatoes be suckered?
From the Old Farmers Almanac:
Q./Should tomatoes be suckered?
You can sucker tomatoes if you like, but you'll be cutting down your crop. Suckered plants yield bigger tomatoes but fewer of them. The more foliage your plants put out, the more tomatoes they can nourish.
Q./Should tomatoes be suckered?
You can sucker tomatoes if you like, but you'll be cutting down your crop. Suckered plants yield bigger tomatoes but fewer of them. The more foliage your plants put out, the more tomatoes they can nourish.
Why won't my cucumber plants produce fruits?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./Why won't my cucumber plants produce fruits?
You may just need to be patient. Cucumbers, like squash, pumpkins, watermelons, cantaloupes, and many other plants, produce male and female flowers separately on the same plant. They often begin producing male flowers several weeks before the females appear. The males make pollen and are necessary, but they do not produce fruits. Look to see if there is a little cucumber behind the flower. If you see a baby cucumber, you have a female flower. If you just see a slender stem going right up to the back of the flower, you have a male flower. If your plants have female flowers and the fruits still aren't setting, be sure that the plants are not excessively dry. The leaves may wilt on hot days, but they should recover as the temperature drops in the evening. If they are still wilted by morning, you are not watering them enough, or you are watering too shallowly and too often. Excessive nitrogen fertilization also could be a problem. If the nutrients are unbalanced, the flowers will drop. Also, if there are no bees to pollinate your cucumber flowers, you will have to transfer pollen from the male flowers to the female flowers by hand. Use a cotton swab or soft-bristle paintbrush to transfer pollen.
We often have to get out the paint brush and act like bees ... especially in the Cold Frame.
Q./Why won't my cucumber plants produce fruits?
You may just need to be patient. Cucumbers, like squash, pumpkins, watermelons, cantaloupes, and many other plants, produce male and female flowers separately on the same plant. They often begin producing male flowers several weeks before the females appear. The males make pollen and are necessary, but they do not produce fruits. Look to see if there is a little cucumber behind the flower. If you see a baby cucumber, you have a female flower. If you just see a slender stem going right up to the back of the flower, you have a male flower. If your plants have female flowers and the fruits still aren't setting, be sure that the plants are not excessively dry. The leaves may wilt on hot days, but they should recover as the temperature drops in the evening. If they are still wilted by morning, you are not watering them enough, or you are watering too shallowly and too often. Excessive nitrogen fertilization also could be a problem. If the nutrients are unbalanced, the flowers will drop. Also, if there are no bees to pollinate your cucumber flowers, you will have to transfer pollen from the male flowers to the female flowers by hand. Use a cotton swab or soft-bristle paintbrush to transfer pollen.
We often have to get out the paint brush and act like bees ... especially in the Cold Frame.
Should any attempt be made to rid a lawn of angleworms?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./Should any attempt be made to rid a lawn of angleworms? We have so many of them that our yard is difficult to mow.
Well, you could sell them for bait! An ordinary acre of land may contain as many as 53,000 angleworms. They prepare the soil to receive seeds, so, without them, many plants would become extinct. You can force angleworms to come above ground by pouring warm soapy water on the soil.
Q./Should any attempt be made to rid a lawn of angleworms? We have so many of them that our yard is difficult to mow.
Well, you could sell them for bait! An ordinary acre of land may contain as many as 53,000 angleworms. They prepare the soil to receive seeds, so, without them, many plants would become extinct. You can force angleworms to come above ground by pouring warm soapy water on the soil.
Wednesday, December 19, 2007
What is the trick for getting gladiolas to stand upright?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./What is the trick for getting gladiolas to stand upright?
Usually when gladiolas fall over, they are planted too shallowly. You can stake them with simple wire hoops. These are available at some garden stores, or you can make them yourself. Use a straight wire 18 inches high with a small loop at the top.
Q./What is the trick for getting gladiolas to stand upright?
Usually when gladiolas fall over, they are planted too shallowly. You can stake them with simple wire hoops. These are available at some garden stores, or you can make them yourself. Use a straight wire 18 inches high with a small loop at the top.
Is there a homemade solution to get rid of black ants?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./Is there a homemade solution to get rid of black ants? I have large ant hills in my garden and lawn.
Try this homemade ant hotel. In a bowl, mix 1 cup borax, 1 cup sugar, and 3 cups water. Place a loose wad of toilet paper in each of four screw-top jars. Pour the mixture into the jars until it is about one inch from the top. Screw the lids on the jars, and with a hammer and nail, make four to eight holes in each lid. Place the jars in areas where you have ants (but keep them away from children and pets). The ants will come marching into the jars.
There are other posts on controlling ants.
Q./Is there a homemade solution to get rid of black ants? I have large ant hills in my garden and lawn.
Try this homemade ant hotel. In a bowl, mix 1 cup borax, 1 cup sugar, and 3 cups water. Place a loose wad of toilet paper in each of four screw-top jars. Pour the mixture into the jars until it is about one inch from the top. Screw the lids on the jars, and with a hammer and nail, make four to eight holes in each lid. Place the jars in areas where you have ants (but keep them away from children and pets). The ants will come marching into the jars.
There are other posts on controlling ants.
Is there a home remedy for getting rid of earwigs?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./Is there a home remedy for getting rid of earwigs?
Clean out a tuna or cat food can and fill it nearly to the top with water. Add a tablespoon of vegetable oil. Place the can in an earwig-infested area. If you have lots of the pests, place several cans in the area. When the bugs come out in the evening, they will crawl into the cans for a swim, but the vegetable oil will prevent them from getting out.
No problem with the Valdez in your back yard ...
Q./Is there a home remedy for getting rid of earwigs?
Clean out a tuna or cat food can and fill it nearly to the top with water. Add a tablespoon of vegetable oil. Place the can in an earwig-infested area. If you have lots of the pests, place several cans in the area. When the bugs come out in the evening, they will crawl into the cans for a swim, but the vegetable oil will prevent them from getting out.
No problem with the Valdez in your back yard ...
How do seedless oranges reproduce?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./How do seedless oranges reproduce?
The seedless orange is a mutant and is created by saving and propagating cuttings. The grower cuts a small limb from a seedless orange tree and grafts it onto a regular orange tree.
Q./How do seedless oranges reproduce?
The seedless orange is a mutant and is created by saving and propagating cuttings. The grower cuts a small limb from a seedless orange tree and grafts it onto a regular orange tree.
How large a container do I need for patio tomatoes?
From the Old Farmer's Amanac:
Q./I tried growing tomatoes in a 5-gallon bucket, and they died. How large a container do I need for patio tomatoes?
Tomatoes need a lot of space. If you want to use containers, the half wine barrels gardening stores sell, or anything that is about the diameter of a 50-gallon garbage can, work best. Actually, using a garbage can itself might be a good idea. Whatever you use, make sure you have plenty of drainage holes in the bottom. For smaller types of tomatoes, such as cherry or grape tomatoes, a 16- to 20-inch-diameter container should be fine. Tomato plants grown in containers require more water and fertilizer than in-ground plants. Water plants when the top three to four inches of soil is dry. Avoid wetting the foliage, and soak the soil until you see water draining through the bottom of the container. After the plants begin to set fruits, water them daily, especially on hot, windy days. Fertilize regularly with any all-purpose fertilizer.
We've had great produce with 5 gal. buckets.
Q./I tried growing tomatoes in a 5-gallon bucket, and they died. How large a container do I need for patio tomatoes?
Tomatoes need a lot of space. If you want to use containers, the half wine barrels gardening stores sell, or anything that is about the diameter of a 50-gallon garbage can, work best. Actually, using a garbage can itself might be a good idea. Whatever you use, make sure you have plenty of drainage holes in the bottom. For smaller types of tomatoes, such as cherry or grape tomatoes, a 16- to 20-inch-diameter container should be fine. Tomato plants grown in containers require more water and fertilizer than in-ground plants. Water plants when the top three to four inches of soil is dry. Avoid wetting the foliage, and soak the soil until you see water draining through the bottom of the container. After the plants begin to set fruits, water them daily, especially on hot, windy days. Fertilize regularly with any all-purpose fertilizer.
We've had great produce with 5 gal. buckets.
How can we get rid of ants burrowing up between our patio stones?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./How can we get rid of ants burrowing up between our patio stones?
There are approximately 8,000 species of ants, and without knowing which species you are dealing with, it is hard to advise you. If you are not sure of the species, you can have a pest control company come out and identify them for you. Or you can simply scoop up some live ants in a dry medicine bottle or baby food jar and take them to the pest control company for identification. Depending on the species, ants may eat grease, sweets (both those found in a home and the sweet nectar produced by aphids), or even other insects. Once a colony locates a desired food source, hundreds of "workers" may descend on the food. To repel ants, try vinegar, cayenne pepper, cinnamon, cream of tartar, salt, or perfume. Just place one of these substances along their path. If it doesn't work, try the others in turn until you find one that is successful. You can also kill the ants by dehydrating them with instant grits, which you can find in the cereal section of the grocery store. They eat them and go off and die.
Q./How can we get rid of ants burrowing up between our patio stones?
There are approximately 8,000 species of ants, and without knowing which species you are dealing with, it is hard to advise you. If you are not sure of the species, you can have a pest control company come out and identify them for you. Or you can simply scoop up some live ants in a dry medicine bottle or baby food jar and take them to the pest control company for identification. Depending on the species, ants may eat grease, sweets (both those found in a home and the sweet nectar produced by aphids), or even other insects. Once a colony locates a desired food source, hundreds of "workers" may descend on the food. To repel ants, try vinegar, cayenne pepper, cinnamon, cream of tartar, salt, or perfume. Just place one of these substances along their path. If it doesn't work, try the others in turn until you find one that is successful. You can also kill the ants by dehydrating them with instant grits, which you can find in the cereal section of the grocery store. They eat them and go off and die.
Can I plant my new azalea plant now, then transplant it to the new house?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./We're building a new home. Can I plant my new azalea plant now, then transplant it to the new house?
Transplanting is not recommended for young plants, so you may want to consider that. Also, it would have been best to have a year's lead time on the move. That way you could do root pruning to create a root ball, cutting off roots with a shovel in a circle around the plant. Then, after digging up, tie the root ball together for the move for best success. Azaleas should be transplanted in early spring or fall if the weather is mild, while the plant is dormant, but the ground is not yet frozen.
Q./We're building a new home. Can I plant my new azalea plant now, then transplant it to the new house?
Transplanting is not recommended for young plants, so you may want to consider that. Also, it would have been best to have a year's lead time on the move. That way you could do root pruning to create a root ball, cutting off roots with a shovel in a circle around the plant. Then, after digging up, tie the root ball together for the move for best success. Azaleas should be transplanted in early spring or fall if the weather is mild, while the plant is dormant, but the ground is not yet frozen.
If I remove the seeds from chiles for my Mexican dishes, will this reduce the spiciness?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./If I remove the seeds from chiles for my Mexican dishes, will this reduce the spiciness?
The spiciness comes from capsaicin. Most of the capsaicin is located in the interior tissue of the pepper, where the seeds are attached. Peppers can be made considerably less spicy by slicing in half and scraping out the seeds and membranes with a spoon.
Q./If I remove the seeds from chiles for my Mexican dishes, will this reduce the spiciness?
The spiciness comes from capsaicin. Most of the capsaicin is located in the interior tissue of the pepper, where the seeds are attached. Peppers can be made considerably less spicy by slicing in half and scraping out the seeds and membranes with a spoon.
Can you suggest some suet recipes, for this winter's birds?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./Can you suggest some suet recipes, for this winter's birds?
You can use almost any seed or grain, mixed with bacon fat, lard, or peanut butter. A basic suet combines equal parts of bacon fat and assorted birdseed. Put it in a tuna or cat food can to chill (or freeze) until it's hard enough to hold its shape, then release it into a wire suet cage or sturdy mesh bag. For a fancier suet, add peanut butter to the mix. You can also bind cornmeal or oatmeal with straight peanut butter and spread it into holes drilled in a post or log. Birds also like dried fruits, so consider adding raisins, currants, apricots, or citron. Most birds also like cornmeal or cracked corn, so consider making them their own cornbread, when you're baking one for yourself. For the birds, skip the eggs, milk, or sweeteners. Instead, use 3 cups of cornmeal with a 1/2 cup of bacon fat or lard. Add 2 teaspoons of baking powder (just to give it some height), and then add water until you get the right consistency -- about 3 cups, more or less. After baking, hang it in a mesh bag or suet cage, or crumble it into a tray feeder.
Q./Can you suggest some suet recipes, for this winter's birds?
You can use almost any seed or grain, mixed with bacon fat, lard, or peanut butter. A basic suet combines equal parts of bacon fat and assorted birdseed. Put it in a tuna or cat food can to chill (or freeze) until it's hard enough to hold its shape, then release it into a wire suet cage or sturdy mesh bag. For a fancier suet, add peanut butter to the mix. You can also bind cornmeal or oatmeal with straight peanut butter and spread it into holes drilled in a post or log. Birds also like dried fruits, so consider adding raisins, currants, apricots, or citron. Most birds also like cornmeal or cracked corn, so consider making them their own cornbread, when you're baking one for yourself. For the birds, skip the eggs, milk, or sweeteners. Instead, use 3 cups of cornmeal with a 1/2 cup of bacon fat or lard. Add 2 teaspoons of baking powder (just to give it some height), and then add water until you get the right consistency -- about 3 cups, more or less. After baking, hang it in a mesh bag or suet cage, or crumble it into a tray feeder.
What exactly was a Victory Garden during World War II?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./What exactly was a Victory Garden during World War II?
To help the war effort, citizens were asked by U.S. Secretary of Agriculture Claude R. Wickard to plant vegetables wherever they could find a plot of land to do so. By 1945, the year the war ended, an estimated 20 million victory gardens had sprouted in sidewalk boulevards, town squares, and odd parcels of land in the cities and out in the country. These gardens were producing 40 percent of the vegetables grown in the United States at that time. The term "victory garden" originated in a book of that title from England, published in 1603. During World War I, U.S. patriots planted what became known as "liberty gardens" as well.
An important trivia question ...
Q./What exactly was a Victory Garden during World War II?
To help the war effort, citizens were asked by U.S. Secretary of Agriculture Claude R. Wickard to plant vegetables wherever they could find a plot of land to do so. By 1945, the year the war ended, an estimated 20 million victory gardens had sprouted in sidewalk boulevards, town squares, and odd parcels of land in the cities and out in the country. These gardens were producing 40 percent of the vegetables grown in the United States at that time. The term "victory garden" originated in a book of that title from England, published in 1603. During World War I, U.S. patriots planted what became known as "liberty gardens" as well.
An important trivia question ...
What is xeriscaping?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./What is xeriscaping?
It is a type of landscape that uses plants with low water needs. It is a method most commonly used in areas where water shortages are common. Drought-resistant plants and low maintenance grasses, those requiring water only every 2 to 3 weeks, are used, in addition to caretaking with drip irrigation, soil improvements, and heavy mulching. Anything that allows for better water absorption and retention is part of the exeriscape technique. The term comes from the Greek word xeros, meaning dry.
We happen to specialize in xeriscaping choices.
Q./What is xeriscaping?
It is a type of landscape that uses plants with low water needs. It is a method most commonly used in areas where water shortages are common. Drought-resistant plants and low maintenance grasses, those requiring water only every 2 to 3 weeks, are used, in addition to caretaking with drip irrigation, soil improvements, and heavy mulching. Anything that allows for better water absorption and retention is part of the exeriscape technique. The term comes from the Greek word xeros, meaning dry.
We happen to specialize in xeriscaping choices.
Tuesday, December 18, 2007
Can I use my Christmas tree for mulch after Christmas?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./Can I use my Christmas tree for mulch after Christmas?
Yes. Remove the branches and chop the trunk for use as mulch.
Many cities are great for picking up trees after Christmas and recyling them into mulch. And not to forget the towns ... I know ours does the same. They even offer the mulch back to the homeowners at no charge.
Q./Can I use my Christmas tree for mulch after Christmas?
Yes. Remove the branches and chop the trunk for use as mulch.
Many cities are great for picking up trees after Christmas and recyling them into mulch. And not to forget the towns ... I know ours does the same. They even offer the mulch back to the homeowners at no charge.
Can one grow holly in northern climes?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./Can one grow holly in northern climes?
Yes, but this hasn't always been the case. Prolonged exposure to cold and winter winds made growing holly impossible where winters can be harsh. But, in the mid-1960s Meserve or "Blue" hollies were introduced. These are a cross between English holly and the extremely hardy prostrate holly. The Meserves will grow as far north as USDA Zone 4.
Q./Can one grow holly in northern climes?
Yes, but this hasn't always been the case. Prolonged exposure to cold and winter winds made growing holly impossible where winters can be harsh. But, in the mid-1960s Meserve or "Blue" hollies were introduced. These are a cross between English holly and the extremely hardy prostrate holly. The Meserves will grow as far north as USDA Zone 4.
What cuttings can I take that will bloom in time for Christmas?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./What cuttings can I take that will bloom in time for Christmas?
Try taking cuttings from your lilac or hawthorn bushes by December 6 and they should bloom for Christmas. Keep them in vases of fresh, room temperature water.
We will try this next Christmas. Likely have to make sure the buds are developed though.
Q./What cuttings can I take that will bloom in time for Christmas?
Try taking cuttings from your lilac or hawthorn bushes by December 6 and they should bloom for Christmas. Keep them in vases of fresh, room temperature water.
We will try this next Christmas. Likely have to make sure the buds are developed though.
Should I mulch my perennials for the winter?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./Should I mulch my perennials for the winter?
Yes, you should do this once your ground is frozen hard.
Q./Should I mulch my perennials for the winter?
Yes, you should do this once your ground is frozen hard.
My African violet has leaf stems that seem too long. Am I doing something wrong?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./My African violet has leaf stems that seem too long. Am I doing something wrong?
Your violet may be suffering from lack of light. Move it to another, sunnier location or supplement natural light with some artificial light.
Q./My African violet has leaf stems that seem too long. Am I doing something wrong?
Your violet may be suffering from lack of light. Move it to another, sunnier location or supplement natural light with some artificial light.
Growing mint indoors / outdoors
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./I've been trying to grow mint indoors, in containers at a south-facing window. Can I keep them indoors year-round and how best can I keep its nice aroma?
The mint will do better if it does sit outside for a summer. Make sure your soil, indoors and out, is moist and well-drained. Your room temperature should be fairly cool and consistent for best growth. Keep pinching them back as they grow so that they remain compact and in their pots. The nice smell, however, will do best if the mint is kept outdoors. It really needs the living soil and elements to maintain its nice aroma.
Q./I've been trying to grow mint indoors, in containers at a south-facing window. Can I keep them indoors year-round and how best can I keep its nice aroma?
The mint will do better if it does sit outside for a summer. Make sure your soil, indoors and out, is moist and well-drained. Your room temperature should be fairly cool and consistent for best growth. Keep pinching them back as they grow so that they remain compact and in their pots. The nice smell, however, will do best if the mint is kept outdoors. It really needs the living soil and elements to maintain its nice aroma.
Monday, December 17, 2007
Can I grow anything in the area under my outdoor stairs where very little light reaches?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./Can I grow anything in the area under my outdoor stairs where very little light reaches?
You should test the light there because, of course, any growing thing needs light to survive. On a sunny day, hold your hand several inches above the ground. If your hand makes any shadow at all, there's hope! Some good bets for this kind of densely shaded area are wild violets or Lamium, Bishop's Weed, and Sweet Woodruff. The violets and Sweet Woodruff will produce flowers, if that's what you're hoping for, while the others will give you some nice variegated leaves. Now, a second challenge will be to make sure you get enough water to those plants. Regular watering under your stairs would be essential! Good luck!
Q./Can I grow anything in the area under my outdoor stairs where very little light reaches?
You should test the light there because, of course, any growing thing needs light to survive. On a sunny day, hold your hand several inches above the ground. If your hand makes any shadow at all, there's hope! Some good bets for this kind of densely shaded area are wild violets or Lamium, Bishop's Weed, and Sweet Woodruff. The violets and Sweet Woodruff will produce flowers, if that's what you're hoping for, while the others will give you some nice variegated leaves. Now, a second challenge will be to make sure you get enough water to those plants. Regular watering under your stairs would be essential! Good luck!
I've noticed my houseplant leaves dripping, even when I haven't watered them lately. What is happening?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./I've noticed my houseplant leaves dripping, even when I haven't watered them lately. What is happening?
Some houseplants will do something called guttation-almost like perspiration for us humans. The plant is trying to rid itself of excess water. Guttation makes a plant vulnerable to disease-causing bacteria, so you'll want to avoid this problem by reducing the amount of water you're giving the plant, especially in these winter months. Also, watch those drips because they contain salts, sugars, and other organics that could stain whatever it is they're dripping on.
Q./I've noticed my houseplant leaves dripping, even when I haven't watered them lately. What is happening?
Some houseplants will do something called guttation-almost like perspiration for us humans. The plant is trying to rid itself of excess water. Guttation makes a plant vulnerable to disease-causing bacteria, so you'll want to avoid this problem by reducing the amount of water you're giving the plant, especially in these winter months. Also, watch those drips because they contain salts, sugars, and other organics that could stain whatever it is they're dripping on.
I planted a Norway spruce and now it seems to be leaning. How can I straighten it?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./I planted a Norway spruce and now it seems to be leaning. How can I straighten it?
Depending upon how long ago you planted it, you can still adjust it if it was very recently. You can remove some of the surrounding soil and resettle the root ball. Gently repack the soil in around the roots when finished and water thoroughly to aid in the resettling. If you think it's been in the ground long enough for the roots to have attached to the native soil, you may consider just leaving the leaning tree alone. Its top will grow straight up toward the light and in a few years will at least appear straight. We wouldn't recommend staking unless the tree is in an overly windy spot.
Q./I planted a Norway spruce and now it seems to be leaning. How can I straighten it?
Depending upon how long ago you planted it, you can still adjust it if it was very recently. You can remove some of the surrounding soil and resettle the root ball. Gently repack the soil in around the roots when finished and water thoroughly to aid in the resettling. If you think it's been in the ground long enough for the roots to have attached to the native soil, you may consider just leaving the leaning tree alone. Its top will grow straight up toward the light and in a few years will at least appear straight. We wouldn't recommend staking unless the tree is in an overly windy spot.
How exactly does a cactus live without water?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./How exactly does a cactus live without water?
Well, it doesn't live entirely without water. Every living thing requires water, but a cactus is just well-designed to survive without a lot of water, plus it uses what water it does have much more efficiently than other plants. Because it has no leaves, it doesn't give up its water through evaporation as easily as other plants. Its stems are thick with a lot of room for storing water, and with a protective covering that keeps the stored water inside. Some cactus species can go for two years without water. The indoor varieties, however, do require more frequent watering, depending upon the species.
Q./How exactly does a cactus live without water?
Well, it doesn't live entirely without water. Every living thing requires water, but a cactus is just well-designed to survive without a lot of water, plus it uses what water it does have much more efficiently than other plants. Because it has no leaves, it doesn't give up its water through evaporation as easily as other plants. Its stems are thick with a lot of room for storing water, and with a protective covering that keeps the stored water inside. Some cactus species can go for two years without water. The indoor varieties, however, do require more frequent watering, depending upon the species.
What is the best location for a cold frame?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./What is the best location for a cold frame?
A cold frame should be set on well-drained soil, facing south. If properly constructed, it should give a one-month head start to your outdoor gardening. Choose seeds for lettuce and other hardy greens to start.
Q./What is the best location for a cold frame?
A cold frame should be set on well-drained soil, facing south. If properly constructed, it should give a one-month head start to your outdoor gardening. Choose seeds for lettuce and other hardy greens to start.
Have you heard of planting seeds in eggshells to start transplants?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./Have you heard of planting seeds in eggshells to start transplants?
Yes, it's an old-time trick. In the days before nice peat pots provided by your local nursery, an eggshell worked nicely. Here's advice from 1880: "Take eggshells cut in half, make two or three small holes in the bottom of each, fill with sifted soil, , sink in a box of sand, sow seeds and cover with glass, of course keeping them in the right light. Water only the sand, for they will absorb enough through the holes. In transplanting, break off the shells, leaving the lump of earth intact without the roots being jarred or disturbed." Try this with some cabbage seeds toward the end of February and you may have good starts for transplanting as soon as you can work the earth!
Q./Have you heard of planting seeds in eggshells to start transplants?
Yes, it's an old-time trick. In the days before nice peat pots provided by your local nursery, an eggshell worked nicely. Here's advice from 1880: "Take eggshells cut in half, make two or three small holes in the bottom of each, fill with sifted soil, , sink in a box of sand, sow seeds and cover with glass, of course keeping them in the right light. Water only the sand, for they will absorb enough through the holes. In transplanting, break off the shells, leaving the lump of earth intact without the roots being jarred or disturbed." Try this with some cabbage seeds toward the end of February and you may have good starts for transplanting as soon as you can work the earth!
Is it harmful to water my household plants with softened water?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./Is it harmful to water my household plants with softened water?
Softened water could harm some plants if that's all you use on them. It is most likely to do harm to any plant that really prefers a light or sandy soil. The sodium ions in softened water tends to cause the soil to become compacted, destroying its aeration and its ability to hold water. So, we would advice caution if you're using softened water. Don't use cold water to water your plants. The best temperature is room temperature!
Q./Is it harmful to water my household plants with softened water?
Softened water could harm some plants if that's all you use on them. It is most likely to do harm to any plant that really prefers a light or sandy soil. The sodium ions in softened water tends to cause the soil to become compacted, destroying its aeration and its ability to hold water. So, we would advice caution if you're using softened water. Don't use cold water to water your plants. The best temperature is room temperature!
Can I use the ashes from coal in my furnace in my garden?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./Can I use the ashes from coal in my furnace in my garden? Lonny Cashman
No! Coal ash contains toxic trace elements which could include heavy metals, arsenic, mercury, and cadmium. Its alkaline level would also be harmful to plants.
Q./Can I use the ashes from coal in my furnace in my garden? Lonny Cashman
No! Coal ash contains toxic trace elements which could include heavy metals, arsenic, mercury, and cadmium. Its alkaline level would also be harmful to plants.
How can I prevent the ugly, green-white galls I got on my azaleas last year?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./How can I prevent the ugly, green-white galls I got on my azaleas last year?
Azalea leaf gall is caused by a fungus and effects plants under moist conditions in early spring. It's ugly, true, but not really dangerous to the plant. You can handpick the galls before they turn white, and pruning low, overhanging tree branches nearby will help to improve air circulation around the plant, which can control the fungus.
Q./How can I prevent the ugly, green-white galls I got on my azaleas last year?
Azalea leaf gall is caused by a fungus and effects plants under moist conditions in early spring. It's ugly, true, but not really dangerous to the plant. You can handpick the galls before they turn white, and pruning low, overhanging tree branches nearby will help to improve air circulation around the plant, which can control the fungus.
Is it true that one way to get the best flavor from tomatoes is to bury a fish head beneath the tomato plant?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./Is it true that one way to get the best flavor from tomatoes is to bury a fish head beneath the tomato plant?
The Native American tribes thought it was a great idea. They used to bury a small fish with every corn seed they planted for healthy plants. Fish is a great fertilizer, and it probably will work for tomato plants, too.
Q./Is it true that one way to get the best flavor from tomatoes is to bury a fish head beneath the tomato plant?
The Native American tribes thought it was a great idea. They used to bury a small fish with every corn seed they planted for healthy plants. Fish is a great fertilizer, and it probably will work for tomato plants, too.
We've had trouble with moss taking over parts of our lawn. How can we stop this from happening this summer?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./We've had trouble with moss taking over parts of our lawn. How can we stop this from happening this summer?
Overgrowth of moss in a lawn is a sign of poor drainage and acidity. Start improving those features by aerating the lawn and spreading lime on it.
Q./We've had trouble with moss taking over parts of our lawn. How can we stop this from happening this summer?
Overgrowth of moss in a lawn is a sign of poor drainage and acidity. Start improving those features by aerating the lawn and spreading lime on it.
Can you tell me how the expression "green thumb" originated?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./Can you tell me how the expression "green thumb" originated?
According to James Underwood Crockett, it comes from the fact that algae growing on the outside of earthenware pots will stain a person's thumb (and fingers) if he or she handles enough pots. Hence, a person who is always working with flowerpots has a green thumb. Another theory is that it originated during the reign of King Edward I of England. He was fond of green peas and kept half a dozen serfs shelling them during the season. The serf who had the greenest thumb won a prize.
You too can be a trivia king or queen!
Q./Can you tell me how the expression "green thumb" originated?
According to James Underwood Crockett, it comes from the fact that algae growing on the outside of earthenware pots will stain a person's thumb (and fingers) if he or she handles enough pots. Hence, a person who is always working with flowerpots has a green thumb. Another theory is that it originated during the reign of King Edward I of England. He was fond of green peas and kept half a dozen serfs shelling them during the season. The serf who had the greenest thumb won a prize.
You too can be a trivia king or queen!
I have some old radish seeds that I didn't use last year. Can I still use them this year in my garden?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./I have some old radish seeds that I didn't use last year. Can I still use them this year in my garden?
Sure, if they are not more than four to five years old. All the seeds might not germinate, but you'll have plenty that do. By contrast, pepper and corn seeds last only about two years.
Q./I have some old radish seeds that I didn't use last year. Can I still use them this year in my garden?
Sure, if they are not more than four to five years old. All the seeds might not germinate, but you'll have plenty that do. By contrast, pepper and corn seeds last only about two years.
What are the best plants to grow to attract butterflies to my garden?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./What are the best plants to grow to attract butterflies to my garden?
Candytufts, cosmos, nasturtiums, alyssum, zinnias, sunflowers, ageratum, marigolds, and heliotropes are a few.
Q./What are the best plants to grow to attract butterflies to my garden?
Candytufts, cosmos, nasturtiums, alyssum, zinnias, sunflowers, ageratum, marigolds, and heliotropes are a few.
Pruning Lilacs
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./My lilac bushes didn't bloom last year. Is there something I can do to get them to bloom? Also, when is the best time to cut them back so they don't get too leggy?
Lilacs appreciate a light application of wood ashes in the fall. Mostly, they need full sun and good drainage. Usually, the only pruning they need comes from picking the flowers (with an eye to the shape of the shrub), but if you feel you must prune, do so just after the flowering season and take out a few of the oldest stems. Avoid a lot of fertilizer, and be patient -- maybe this year will be a better lilac year for you!
Q./My lilac bushes didn't bloom last year. Is there something I can do to get them to bloom? Also, when is the best time to cut them back so they don't get too leggy?
Lilacs appreciate a light application of wood ashes in the fall. Mostly, they need full sun and good drainage. Usually, the only pruning they need comes from picking the flowers (with an eye to the shape of the shrub), but if you feel you must prune, do so just after the flowering season and take out a few of the oldest stems. Avoid a lot of fertilizer, and be patient -- maybe this year will be a better lilac year for you!
Changing colour of leaves
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./I've heard that if you put the tea from old tea bags on hydrangea plants, the blossoms will turn blue or purple. I have four of these plants with pink blossoms, and I was wondering whether the tea would change their color.
Hydrangea flowers are pink in near-neutral soil and blue in acidic soil. You can change the color of the flowers by changing the pH of the soil. If you have a lot of lime in your soil, the blossoms will be pink. To get blue flowers, you need to lower the pH, which you can do by adding sulfur or peat moss to the soil. Adding tea, which contains tannic acid, also might bring on the blue color.
Chemistry and gardening often go together ... and having a tea is chemistry.
Q./I've heard that if you put the tea from old tea bags on hydrangea plants, the blossoms will turn blue or purple. I have four of these plants with pink blossoms, and I was wondering whether the tea would change their color.
Hydrangea flowers are pink in near-neutral soil and blue in acidic soil. You can change the color of the flowers by changing the pH of the soil. If you have a lot of lime in your soil, the blossoms will be pink. To get blue flowers, you need to lower the pH, which you can do by adding sulfur or peat moss to the soil. Adding tea, which contains tannic acid, also might bring on the blue color.
Chemistry and gardening often go together ... and having a tea is chemistry.
How do you kill ants in flower beds without harming plants or pets?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./How do you kill ants in flower beds without harming plants or pets?
Sprinkle some hot pepper flakes where the ants are nesting.
Q./How do you kill ants in flower beds without harming plants or pets?
Sprinkle some hot pepper flakes where the ants are nesting.
steep, sunny banks around the house that are difficult to mow.
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./I have some steep, sunny banks around the house that are difficult to mow. What should I plant that will cover well, hold the soil, and look nice?
Sounds perfect for growing sun-loving herbal ground covers such as thyme, wild strawberries, white clover, or violets -- anything low growing and hardy. If you don't mind taller plants, oregano, chamomile, and various mints will work. Once the plants are established, you won't have to worry about weeding or mowing.
We have created numerous designs for challenging landscapes.
Q./I have some steep, sunny banks around the house that are difficult to mow. What should I plant that will cover well, hold the soil, and look nice?
Sounds perfect for growing sun-loving herbal ground covers such as thyme, wild strawberries, white clover, or violets -- anything low growing and hardy. If you don't mind taller plants, oregano, chamomile, and various mints will work. Once the plants are established, you won't have to worry about weeding or mowing.
We have created numerous designs for challenging landscapes.
What is a good indoor plant for a beginner?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./What is a good indoor plant for a beginner?
Spider plants, philodendrons, and snake plants are virtually foolproof. We've had good luck with dracaenas, which look like small palm trees and are quite attractive. Give them enough light, enough (but not too much) water, and an occasional dose of fertilizer.
A good tip for the guys ...
Q./What is a good indoor plant for a beginner?
Spider plants, philodendrons, and snake plants are virtually foolproof. We've had good luck with dracaenas, which look like small palm trees and are quite attractive. Give them enough light, enough (but not too much) water, and an occasional dose of fertilizer.
A good tip for the guys ...
Do you have to plant pumpkin seeds in a hill?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac\:
Q./Do you have to plant pumpkin seeds in a hill? Also, what type of soil do pumpkins need?
Prepare the ground in early spring as soon as the ground is warm. Fertilize with a good four inches of rotting cow manure. Pumpkins do best in slightly acid or nearly neutral soil. If you live in an area where there is a danger of frost in late April or early May, start the seeds indoors about two weeks before planting outdoors. When the seedlings have the fourth or fifth leaf, set them out in hills the size of a pitcher's mound, one plant to a hill. Space hills at least 20 feet apart. Pumpkins need a lot of sun and water, but don't plant them in wet or dense soil -- they need good, well-drained soil.
Q./Do you have to plant pumpkin seeds in a hill? Also, what type of soil do pumpkins need?
Prepare the ground in early spring as soon as the ground is warm. Fertilize with a good four inches of rotting cow manure. Pumpkins do best in slightly acid or nearly neutral soil. If you live in an area where there is a danger of frost in late April or early May, start the seeds indoors about two weeks before planting outdoors. When the seedlings have the fourth or fifth leaf, set them out in hills the size of a pitcher's mound, one plant to a hill. Space hills at least 20 feet apart. Pumpkins need a lot of sun and water, but don't plant them in wet or dense soil -- they need good, well-drained soil.
How do you keep rabbits from eating pansies?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./How do you keep rabbits from eating pansies?
Place dried sulfur, available at farm and garden supply stores, around the edge of your garden. You could also sprinkle bloodmeal around your pansies after each rainfall; it will also benefit the soil by adding nitrogen. However, don't try it if you have dogs that roam the garden. They may be attracted to the scent and start digging.
Q./How do you keep rabbits from eating pansies?
Place dried sulfur, available at farm and garden supply stores, around the edge of your garden. You could also sprinkle bloodmeal around your pansies after each rainfall; it will also benefit the soil by adding nitrogen. However, don't try it if you have dogs that roam the garden. They may be attracted to the scent and start digging.
Cutting Flowers
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./I'm intrigued by the idea of a cutting garden, but I'm uncertain how one keeps such a bed generating new flowers. Any advice?
Different gardeners have different ideas about what a cutting bed should be, but generally speaking, it consists of unpretentious rows of flowers, sometimes planted in a large vegetable garden, and the intent is that the flowers will be decimated. A cutting garden is best situated in some sunny, out-of-the-way spot. A skilled gardener will plan successive plantings to produce a steady supply of various cuttings as the summer progresses. Some good choices for cutting beds are taller, longer-stemmed, and not-so-neat varieties of flowers that work well in bouquets but can make a formal border look disheveled. They may be annuals, perennials, or a mix. Shasta daisies, feverfew, baby's breath, statice, zinnias, cosmos, strawflowers, poppies, delphiniums, sweet peas, and ornamental grasses are all good choices. Think of what you like in your bouquets, both as centerpiece flowers and as fillers. Cutting gardens are also prime locations for uninhibited experiments.
Q./I'm intrigued by the idea of a cutting garden, but I'm uncertain how one keeps such a bed generating new flowers. Any advice?
Different gardeners have different ideas about what a cutting bed should be, but generally speaking, it consists of unpretentious rows of flowers, sometimes planted in a large vegetable garden, and the intent is that the flowers will be decimated. A cutting garden is best situated in some sunny, out-of-the-way spot. A skilled gardener will plan successive plantings to produce a steady supply of various cuttings as the summer progresses. Some good choices for cutting beds are taller, longer-stemmed, and not-so-neat varieties of flowers that work well in bouquets but can make a formal border look disheveled. They may be annuals, perennials, or a mix. Shasta daisies, feverfew, baby's breath, statice, zinnias, cosmos, strawflowers, poppies, delphiniums, sweet peas, and ornamental grasses are all good choices. Think of what you like in your bouquets, both as centerpiece flowers and as fillers. Cutting gardens are also prime locations for uninhibited experiments.
Thursday, December 13, 2007
Any tips for making cut flowers last longer indoors?
From tthe Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./Any tips for making cut flowers last longer indoors?
A./Do you have foxgloves? If so, add them to any bouquet, and they'll make the whole arrangement last longer. Copper pellets or pennies in the water will increase the effect. Daffodils should be kept alone in a vase, as their stems secrete a fluid that promotes the wilting of other flowers. If you must combine them, soak them by themselves for as long as possible, then rinse them and add them to the arrangement last. With any flower, clip back leaves that will be immersed in the water, for they will contaminate it and make for a shorter duration. Changing the water daily also will increase the longevity of blooms. Some people claim that an aspirin in the water is beneficial. Add a bit of sugar for delphiniums or larkspurs. Start chrysanthemums briefly in very hot water, then switch to very cold.
Another reason to save your pennies.
Q./Any tips for making cut flowers last longer indoors?
A./Do you have foxgloves? If so, add them to any bouquet, and they'll make the whole arrangement last longer. Copper pellets or pennies in the water will increase the effect. Daffodils should be kept alone in a vase, as their stems secrete a fluid that promotes the wilting of other flowers. If you must combine them, soak them by themselves for as long as possible, then rinse them and add them to the arrangement last. With any flower, clip back leaves that will be immersed in the water, for they will contaminate it and make for a shorter duration. Changing the water daily also will increase the longevity of blooms. Some people claim that an aspirin in the water is beneficial. Add a bit of sugar for delphiniums or larkspurs. Start chrysanthemums briefly in very hot water, then switch to very cold.
Another reason to save your pennies.
If I want to make my own salsa, what should I plant?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./If I want to make my own salsa, what should I plant?
A./Salsa recipes are as varied as those for tomato sauce, but the basics include two or three types of chili peppers--hot or mild--and tomatillos, tomato-like fruits with papery husks that come from Mexico. The tomatoes for your salsa can be almost any variety or a combination. Cherry tomatoes, plum tomatoes, or the larger beefsteak versions are all acceptable. Some recipes call for green tomatoes. You should also grow some garlic and onions.
Q./If I want to make my own salsa, what should I plant?
A./Salsa recipes are as varied as those for tomato sauce, but the basics include two or three types of chili peppers--hot or mild--and tomatillos, tomato-like fruits with papery husks that come from Mexico. The tomatoes for your salsa can be almost any variety or a combination. Cherry tomatoes, plum tomatoes, or the larger beefsteak versions are all acceptable. Some recipes call for green tomatoes. You should also grow some garlic and onions.
How can I get rid of slugs in my garden?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./How can I get rid of slugs in my garden?
A./To keep slugs away from tender plants, surround the stems with eggshells, ashes, or grit.
Q./How can I get rid of slugs in my garden?
A./To keep slugs away from tender plants, surround the stems with eggshells, ashes, or grit.
I want to plant a green manure, but how do I choose one?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./I want to plant a green manure, but how do I choose one?
A./You can plant numerous green manures in June. You simply need to decide which soil quality you're shooting for and how quickly you want to replant your garden plot. If you're devoting this summer to renewing the soil and won't replant until next spring, you have lots of choices. Some green manures, such as alfalfa, are particularly suitable for breaking up heavy soils. Its deep roots will open up and aerate the soil once the crop is rototilled back into the earth. If you're after nitrogen, choose one of the legume varieties, such as vetch, fenugreek, red clover, or black medick. Keep in mind that red clover is a perennial, which means that it might continue to come up in future years. If that's a problem, choose one of the others. After two to three months in the ground, these crops can be rototilled into the soil or cut and left on top of the soil as mulch. Either way, they will release their nutrients slowly into the soil, improving it for future use. Wait at least three to four weeks, or until the following spring, before planting anything else in the area.
Q./I want to plant a green manure, but how do I choose one?
A./You can plant numerous green manures in June. You simply need to decide which soil quality you're shooting for and how quickly you want to replant your garden plot. If you're devoting this summer to renewing the soil and won't replant until next spring, you have lots of choices. Some green manures, such as alfalfa, are particularly suitable for breaking up heavy soils. Its deep roots will open up and aerate the soil once the crop is rototilled back into the earth. If you're after nitrogen, choose one of the legume varieties, such as vetch, fenugreek, red clover, or black medick. Keep in mind that red clover is a perennial, which means that it might continue to come up in future years. If that's a problem, choose one of the others. After two to three months in the ground, these crops can be rototilled into the soil or cut and left on top of the soil as mulch. Either way, they will release their nutrients slowly into the soil, improving it for future use. Wait at least three to four weeks, or until the following spring, before planting anything else in the area.
cherry fruit fly maggots
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./Last year, our cherry tree produced many cherries, but when we cut into them, they were full of little worms. What are they, and how can we prevent them from ruining our cherries this year?
A./The worms are cherry fruit fly maggots. The best way to get rid of them is to trap or spray the flies before they lay their eggs in the fruit. To trap them, use two or three bright yellow 10x10-inch boards about the same thickness as cardboard and covered with Tack Trap. (Many garden supply stores also sell ready-made fruit fly traps.) Hang the traps in the tree about three weeks after it blossoms and just after the flies first appear. The female flies also may be attracted to red, apple-size plastic or wooden balls coated with Tack Trap and hung on the tree. If you fail to catch any flies by trapping, you may want to spray the tree weekly with rotenone for two or three weeks.
Q./Last year, our cherry tree produced many cherries, but when we cut into them, they were full of little worms. What are they, and how can we prevent them from ruining our cherries this year?
A./The worms are cherry fruit fly maggots. The best way to get rid of them is to trap or spray the flies before they lay their eggs in the fruit. To trap them, use two or three bright yellow 10x10-inch boards about the same thickness as cardboard and covered with Tack Trap. (Many garden supply stores also sell ready-made fruit fly traps.) Hang the traps in the tree about three weeks after it blossoms and just after the flies first appear. The female flies also may be attracted to red, apple-size plastic or wooden balls coated with Tack Trap and hung on the tree. If you fail to catch any flies by trapping, you may want to spray the tree weekly with rotenone for two or three weeks.
When is it too late to feed apple trees?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./When is it too late to feed apple trees?
A./Many orchard owners use the summer solstice (June 21) as the cutoff date, but others say July 1. The reason is that fertilizing the trees too late in the season can cause confusion when it comes time for them to go dormant. And if their dormancy is delayed, especially in more northern climates, they may be caught off guard by the coming of winter or even an early fall frost. Late feedings also cause late-summer growth, which will prove particularly susceptible to the coming cold. If you want to do something for your trees after the deadline, remove any grass and weeds that might be crowding them and spread a good layer of mulch outward for about four feet. Hay, grass clippings, wood shavings, shredded bark, and other organic materials are all good choices and will enrich the soil.
Q./When is it too late to feed apple trees?
A./Many orchard owners use the summer solstice (June 21) as the cutoff date, but others say July 1. The reason is that fertilizing the trees too late in the season can cause confusion when it comes time for them to go dormant. And if their dormancy is delayed, especially in more northern climates, they may be caught off guard by the coming of winter or even an early fall frost. Late feedings also cause late-summer growth, which will prove particularly susceptible to the coming cold. If you want to do something for your trees after the deadline, remove any grass and weeds that might be crowding them and spread a good layer of mulch outward for about four feet. Hay, grass clippings, wood shavings, shredded bark, and other organic materials are all good choices and will enrich the soil.
Should I divide my hostas?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./Should I divide my hostas?
A./Hostas don't need to be divided, because they spread laterally, sending out underground shoots. Maturity enhances their appearance, and digging or dividing only slows their progress. If you have trouble getting them to flower, focus on soil acidity and fertility. They like composted cow manure, or you could add a commercial product. (Avoid granular chemical fertilizers, however.) Dry, shady areas are no problem, but do water the plants regularly, preferably in the morning, to discourage slugs. If you want to move hostas or to restrict their size, dig them up in the autumn before they go dormant. Removing them in June will disturb their feeder roots, so their summer growth might be stunted by the upheaval. The roots can be tough; you'll need a sharp gardener's knife or serrated blade to cut them.
Hostas are a favorite choice for the shady areas.
Q./Should I divide my hostas?
A./Hostas don't need to be divided, because they spread laterally, sending out underground shoots. Maturity enhances their appearance, and digging or dividing only slows their progress. If you have trouble getting them to flower, focus on soil acidity and fertility. They like composted cow manure, or you could add a commercial product. (Avoid granular chemical fertilizers, however.) Dry, shady areas are no problem, but do water the plants regularly, preferably in the morning, to discourage slugs. If you want to move hostas or to restrict their size, dig them up in the autumn before they go dormant. Removing them in June will disturb their feeder roots, so their summer growth might be stunted by the upheaval. The roots can be tough; you'll need a sharp gardener's knife or serrated blade to cut them.
Hostas are a favorite choice for the shady areas.
Wednesday, December 12, 2007
My geraniums have stopped flowering. I've fed them, but to no avail. What's wrong?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./My geraniums have stopped flowering. I've fed them, but to no avail. What's wrong?
A./You may be overfeeding them. Geraniums, of the genus Pelargonium, come from the Mediterranean and thrive in full sun and relatively poor soil. If you're getting an abundance of leafy growth and the plants look healthy, overfeeding may be the problem. Stop feeding them for a while. If, however, your plants are aging and the stems become leggy, it may be time to propagate. The average life expectancy of a geranium is about two years, and although they will last much longer than that, they tend to get woody and the blooms diminish. Luckily, propagation is easy with geraniums. Simply take four-inch stem tip cuttings with at least two pairs of healthy leaves. Remove the lowest pair of leaves, dip the cut stem in hormone rooting powder, and insert the cutting in a mix of half sand and half peat moss. Water well, cover with plastic to help retain the moisture, and repot in regular soil in about three weeks. A simpler technique is to stick the cutting in water and let it develop roots, then pot.
Q./My geraniums have stopped flowering. I've fed them, but to no avail. What's wrong?
A./You may be overfeeding them. Geraniums, of the genus Pelargonium, come from the Mediterranean and thrive in full sun and relatively poor soil. If you're getting an abundance of leafy growth and the plants look healthy, overfeeding may be the problem. Stop feeding them for a while. If, however, your plants are aging and the stems become leggy, it may be time to propagate. The average life expectancy of a geranium is about two years, and although they will last much longer than that, they tend to get woody and the blooms diminish. Luckily, propagation is easy with geraniums. Simply take four-inch stem tip cuttings with at least two pairs of healthy leaves. Remove the lowest pair of leaves, dip the cut stem in hormone rooting powder, and insert the cutting in a mix of half sand and half peat moss. Water well, cover with plastic to help retain the moisture, and repot in regular soil in about three weeks. A simpler technique is to stick the cutting in water and let it develop roots, then pot.
Road Salt / Harm to trees ?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./Our evergreens near the road have a lot of brown needles this summer. Is road salt the cause?
A./It could be road salt, especially if the trees are so close to the road that passing cars and trucks spray the salt on the branches. Melting ice and snow carry salt runoff to the trees' root systems, so trees growing in low-lying areas may be more affected in this manner. The salt spray from winter ocean storms also can damage trees. Some tree varieties are more susceptible to salt damage than others. Blue spruce, white spruce, and Austrian pine are fairly resistant. Norway spruce, tamarack (larch or hackmatack, to some), and balsam fir are among the most susceptible. Keep in mind that salt burn on trees is similar in appearance to windburn. Are the trees on the side of the road that gets the most wind? If this is the case, try to protect them from the wind.
This is known to be quite a problem in some areas.
Q./Our evergreens near the road have a lot of brown needles this summer. Is road salt the cause?
A./It could be road salt, especially if the trees are so close to the road that passing cars and trucks spray the salt on the branches. Melting ice and snow carry salt runoff to the trees' root systems, so trees growing in low-lying areas may be more affected in this manner. The salt spray from winter ocean storms also can damage trees. Some tree varieties are more susceptible to salt damage than others. Blue spruce, white spruce, and Austrian pine are fairly resistant. Norway spruce, tamarack (larch or hackmatack, to some), and balsam fir are among the most susceptible. Keep in mind that salt burn on trees is similar in appearance to windburn. Are the trees on the side of the road that gets the most wind? If this is the case, try to protect them from the wind.
This is known to be quite a problem in some areas.
Does garlic really work against mosquitoes?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./Does garlic really work against mosquitoes?
A./Given how quickly those pesky insects seem to adapt and become immune to various bug dopes, we can't say for sure, but it's worth a try. Some people swallow slivered garlic to ward off these summer pests. Others take garlic tablets or rub garlic juice directly on their skin. Pet owners often give dogs or cats a small clove of garlic in a bit of meat to ward off fleas. If you do get bitten or stung, a paste of mashed garlic can help take the sting and itch away. Some people apply garlic, onion, or radish juice for the same purpose.
Other herbal plantings, such as Citronella, are promoted to ward off the little bug..s.
Q./Does garlic really work against mosquitoes?
A./Given how quickly those pesky insects seem to adapt and become immune to various bug dopes, we can't say for sure, but it's worth a try. Some people swallow slivered garlic to ward off these summer pests. Others take garlic tablets or rub garlic juice directly on their skin. Pet owners often give dogs or cats a small clove of garlic in a bit of meat to ward off fleas. If you do get bitten or stung, a paste of mashed garlic can help take the sting and itch away. Some people apply garlic, onion, or radish juice for the same purpose.
Other herbal plantings, such as Citronella, are promoted to ward off the little bug..s.
Saint-John's-wort
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./I've had Saint-John's-wort in my flower bed for years. What can you tell me about it?
A./This yellow-flowered herb, of the genus Hypericum, was named for St. John the Baptist, whose feast day is June 24, when the plant is generally in bloom. It's a spreading, woody perennial, often found in well-drained rock gardens, banks, and edgings. The scientific name comes from the Greek hyper, for "above," and eikon, for "picture," which refers to the ancient custom of hanging the herb over images to ward off evil. It was thought to protect against lightning as well, and thus was often hung in doorways, cottage windows, and even barns. An ointment made from the herb is sometimes used for skin ailments and burns. In some countries, including Germany, Saint-John's-wort has long been considered a remedy for depression. Because of its tranquilizing effects, it is sometimes connected with treatments for premenstrual syndrome (PMS) and anxiety. The herb can cause sensitivity to sunlight, however, so check with your health practitioner before embarking on a course of treatment.
From Wikipedia:
St John's wort (pronounced /ˈwɝt/, rhyming with hurt) used alone refers to the species Hypericum perforatum, also known as Tipton's Weed or Klamath weed, but, with qualifiers, is used to refer to any species of the genus Hypericum. Therefore, H. perforatum is sometimes called Common St John's wort to differentiate it. The species of Hypericum have been placed by some in the family Hypericaceae, but more recently have been included in the Clusiaceae.[citation needed] Approximately 370 species of the genus Hypericum exist worldwide with a native geographical distribution including temperate and subtropical regions of North America, Europe, Asia Minor, Russia, India and China.
How can I get rid of the black snakes in our garden?
From the Old Farmer's Almanac:
Q./How can I get rid of the black snakes in our garden?
A./Although snakes may be bothersome, they do help to control other garden problems such as caterpillars and slow-moving insects. If you still want to eliminate them from your garden, get rid of all possible hiding places, including hay, mulch, black plastic, and the like. Keeping the nearby grass and weedy areas trimmed is also helpful. Other remedies include sprinkling dried sulfur (available at farm and garden stores) or limestone around the area to be protected. Onions are also thought to repel snakes.
We have not heard about little black snakes around here, but I suppose the small and fairly common and non-poisonous garter snake may be frequent visitors to a garden.
From Wikipedia:
A garter snake is any species of North American snake within the genus Thamnophis. Because of the similarity in sound of the words, combined with where people often see them, they are sometimes called garden snakes or gardner snakes. They are not poisonous.
Garter snakes are common across North America, from Canada to Central America. They are the single most widely distributed species of reptile in North America, and is a common sight in American gardens, giving rise to its "garden snake" nickname. In fact, the common garter snake, T. sirtalis, is the only species of snake to be found in Alaska, and is one of the northernmost species of snake in the world, possibly second only to the Crossed Viper, Vipera berus. The genus is so far ranging due to its unparticular diet and adaptability to different biomes and landforms, from marshes to hillsides to drainage ditches and even vacant lots, in both dry and wet regions, with varying proximity to water and rivers. However, in the western part of North America, these snakes are more water-loving than in the eastern portion. Northern populations hibernate in larger groups than southern ones. Despite the decline in their population from collection as pets (especially in the more northerly regions in which large groups are collected at hibernation), pollution of aquatic areas, and introduction of bullfrogs and bass as predators, this is still a very commonly found snake. The San Francisco garter snake, Thamnophis sirtalis tetrataenia, however, is an endangered subspecies and has been on the endangered list since 1967. Predation by crayfish has also been responsible for the decline of the narrowhead garter snake, T. rufipunctatus.
And their diet:
Garter snakes, like all snakes, are carnivorous. Their diet consists of almost any creature that they are capable of overpowering: slugs, earthworms, insects, leeches, lizards, amphibians, birds, fish, and rodents. When living near the water, they will eat other aquatic animals. The ribbon snake in particular favors frogs (including tadpoles), readily eating them despite their strong chemical defenses.[citation needed] Food is swallowed whole. Although they dine mostly upon live animals, they will sometimes eat eggs
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
What Really Matters ?
Enjoy Your Yard - And Contribute to the Environment in a Big Way
Your Yard - For You, Your Family and Your Friends
Local to Red Deer 403-505-3478
or Alberta Toll Free 1-866-505-3478
Prairie Scapes - Our RSS Feed
Blog Archive
-
►
2009
(187)
-
►
November
(40)
- Pruning Climbing Roses
- Pruning Wisteria
- Pruning Subshrubs
- How to Prune Cane-Growing Shrubs
- The best plants for bonsai
- Pruning Hydrangeas
- 3 Ways to Prune Rhododendrons
- Video - A Survey of Pruning Tools
- Pruning hollies
- Video -How to Prune Shrub Roses
- Video -How to Prune Hybrid Tea Roses
- Video -How to Prune Floribunda Roses
- How to Prune Conifers
- Video - Storing Seeds
- Video -Sowing Seeds
- Video -Seed-Starting Pre-Treat
- Video -Rooting Tip Cuttings
- Video -How to Divide Ornamental Grasses
- Video - How to Dig, Divide, and Store Dahlia Tuber...
- Video -Dividing Plants with Woody Roots
- Video -Dividing Plants with Underground Running Ro...
- Video -Dividing Plants with Taproots
- Video -Dividing Plants with Surface Roots
- Video -Dividing Plants with Roots That Form Offset...
- Video - Dividing a Plant Without Digging It Up
- Video - Collecting Seeds
- Video - Collecting Fern Spores
- A movable windowsill
- Propagating pachysandra
- Keeping seed packets in view
- Collecting and Storing Seeds
- A mini-greenhouse
- Jump Start Your Seeds
- Hormones hasten rooting
- Propagating rhodies
- Grow Your Own Conifers from Hardwood Cuttings
- Weave a Garden of Self-Sown Splendor
- Breed Your Own Gladiolus Hybrids
- Propagating white-flowered four o’clocks
- Dividing Perennials: Tools, Techniques, and Timing...
-
►
November
(40)